Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have a S1 R33 with a S1 RB25DET. Recently I did a compression test on it and it says low on compression. So I bought another 25 head which I plan to swap over.

However upon taking it to a Head Shop today, they have stated the head may be a NEO 25. On the exhaust side of this head it says 5L83 and I'm just wondering if anyone can confirm this is indeed a NEO?

Also, is this going to now not be compatible with my S1 RB25 block? Just because this new head is straight and in good condition.

Cheers for any help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456055-rb25det-head-query/
Share on other sites

wouldn't it be easy to tell if its solid lifters or not ben?? they have smaller runners too don't they, wonder what the difference is there....

The runner size difference is minimal, unless its the na head, which is noticeably smaller.

The lifters are pretty obvious but the vct allen head grub screw rather than bolts and lack of vct oil drain on the side of the head is obvious from a distance.

  • Like 1

Yes it is a NEO head. The coilpack bolts straight onto the head in the NEO as with the non NEO engines are mounted on a bracket which are then bolted on by 12mm bolts.

Correct. This is how I was able to tell.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate, couldn't find in VIC, ended up ordering one from NSW, getting rwc to get new plates and registration done.
    • Before all the EFR fan boys come in, have a look at: https://www.garrettmotion.com/racing-and-performance/performance-catalog/turbo/g-series-ii-g30-825-58mm/ It also comes in a T4 1.06 divided housing. I would dare say if you want response & also decent power, this thing would chop.   AND apologies, just re-read your post, you've already bought the turbo... whatever you do, make sure you stick with divided housing and proper twin scroll manifold.
    • People have got to stop doing that. ShatGPT is not a search engine. It is a hallucination factory.   I also would recommend the 1.05. The .83 will "work" for you , in that it will be more responsive, but I think you'll find that it won't be anywhere near as good running it out to 8000rpm as the big housing will be.
    • Decided for the first time ever I would tow my car TO the track day on the same working theory as bringing tools and spares "if I have it I wont need it, but if I leave it behind i will 100% need it" all setup and ready to go out and try these A050 for the first time First session showed I needed to stiffen up the dampers a touch but still managed a few 1:21's without much effort. things were looking good. Came in a dropped the tyres down  to 26/28 as they had gotten to 35/33C from 22C cold The first lap of session two I managed to drop into 1:20's. Then in the second lap into the second session. Coming into T3 and I suddenly lost brake pedal followed by some huge rear end vibrations and scraping sounds. Got it back into the pits after session ended and found this. in the attached video, all of the wobble is in the hub its self, wheel is mint, and bearing feels tight. lKXLqpd - Imgur.mp4   Deciding it was a bent spindle I tried to find bearing/hub assembly locally but was unsuccessful so it was loaded back onto the trailer i luckily brought it on to drag it back home  
    • 1.05 you’ve gotta let it breath 
×
×
  • Create New...