Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was driving my R32 GTR at altitude on the weekend and it ran like a dog up there. Really unresponsive and laggy and when at 5-10km/h it was jerky pretty much a dog.

Once I came out of altitude (3000+ feet) it started to drive fine again.

I know the air is thinner up there but i wasnt expecting such a change. I have had the car up higher before but that was with AFM's and standard computer.

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456144-altitude-driving/
Share on other sites

I have had the car up higher before but that was with AFM's and standard computer.

Any ideas?

I think you answered your own question. But until you tell us exactly what is different between now and previously, it would be difficult to speculate on the causes.

Yuh, people say that pretty much all ECUs are as good as each other, but there is one area where some ECUs don't handle their shit at all well, and that is altitude compensation.

When you get rid of AFMs and rely on MAP sensors, the ABSOLUTE pressure in the inlet manifold is used as the load measurement (coupled with revs of course).

If it is tuned at sea level (101.325 kPa atmospheric pressure) then the pressure drop driving air across the throttle body = 101.325 - MAP. If MAP is 50 kPA, then that driving pressure is 51.325 kPa forcing air across the throttlebody.

But if that same car is taken to 1000m elevation, the atmospheric pressure is only about 90 kPa. For the same MAP of 50 kPa, the driving force across the throttle body is only 90 - 50 = 40. Ie, you only have 80% of the true pressure you used to have, and only get about the square root of that (back to ~90%) as a resulting air flow. Then you factor in the lower density of the air (another 90%) and you lose a little bit more. End result....for the same load signal seen by the ECU, you're only getting ~90% of the air flow you had when it was tuned. Yet the ECU will still shove in 100% of the fuel.

Decent MAP based ECUs need to have a good atmospheric pressure compensation built in to account for this.

Edited by GTSBoy

Thanks for that - tuner finally came back to me and has said the same thing. He said can install a good atmospheric pressure sensor but if you do not go across that road (desert road north island NZ) than not really required. He has seen it before on customers cars and his car also.

Thanks for the help :)

There are a few people running at the Snowy Mountains 1000 in NSW which is very high altitude, first time they went there the cars ran crap, second time they brought their tuners with them and problems were sorted by pulling fuel out.

Not something most would be thinking about until they went through it......

Yuh, people say that pretty much all ECUs are as good as each other, but there is one area where some ECUs don't handle their shit at all well, and that is altitude compensation.

When you get rid of AFMs and rely on MAP sensors, the ABSOLUTE pressure in the inlet manifold is used as the load measurement (coupled with revs of course).

If it is tuned at sea level (101.325 kPa atmospheric pressure) then the pressure drop driving air across the throttle body = 101.325 - MAP. If MAP is 50 kPA, then that driving pressure is 51.325 kPa forcing air across the throttlebody.

But if that same car is taken to 1000m elevation, the atmospheric pressure is only about 90 kPa. For the same MAP of 50 kPa, the driving force across the throttle body is only 90 - 50 = 40. Ie, you only have 80% of the true pressure you used to have, and only get about the square root of that (back to ~90%) as a resulting air flow. Then you factor in the lower density of the air (another 90%) and you lose a little bit more. End result....for the same load signal seen by the ECU, you're only getting ~90% of the air flow you had when it was tuned. Yet the ECU will still shove in 100% of the fuel.

Decent MAP based ECUs need to have a good atmospheric pressure compensation built in to account for this.

(y) Though the ECU is also only as good as the person operating it. A lot of ECUs default (/ force) the tuner to use gauge pressure for the fuel table setup and apply baro correction to it as part of the fuel calculation, though if you are using Alpha-N (as you would with an RB26 with an ITB intake manifold) then the fuel calculation becomes a bit "different" and you need to ensure the ECU has the facility to do baro correction, and you of course need to enable that mode as well

Not something most would be thinking about until they went through it......

Its a bit disappointing how much seems to be overlooked by people willing to take lots of money on the premise they know how to make the car entirely usable.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...