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My car has a million problems need help solving one my old r33 did the same I just sold the thing without fixing it this one does it all the time

Problem

When the cars hot after a while I don't mean running temp more like drive for half an hour. My car seems to all of a sudden loose power after a quarter throttle

Things I noticed are the exhaust note hangs sounds like the car is struggling (which it is) it sounds like it's slowly revving out but takes forever

Natural instinct makes me back off but if I keep the throttle down it really goes nowhere!

Since I have been swamped with other things it's been put off for a while until I get the cars other issues fixed

It's really annoying and I can't overtake anyone with the power of a charade

While I'm writing a thread does anyone know why it idles high? 1100 rpm.

Thanks in advance

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456157-problem-when-cars-warm-rb20det/
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Yeah I'll just replace is. Is this in reference to my idle issue or nugget when hot issue

(Please note that my thermostat is new and the car gets up to "running temperature" quickly it's drives longer then say 30 minutes sometimes longer before it does it.

(It is accumulative so if I do a lot of short trips it still does it)

Both - Idle and Nugget

Edit: Basically the ECTS (Water coolant Sensor) is sending poor info to the ECU which is getting info from other sensors as well.

By the way it should cost around $40-50 and you can change it yourself

Edited by Sinista32

20+ years old car now man, things start to get old/worn/brittle. Start slowly gathering parts and replace them (e.g. coilpacks + harness + from performance-wise, throw new BCPR6ES-11 spark plugs in as well).

Having a standard engine is a bonus, less shit to worry about when diagnosing.

I miss my black GTS-t :(

The larger the gap the better/bigger the spark therefore better the burn :)

With a stock car running average boost your best off with 1.1mm on your spark plugs.

When you modify and wind up the wick wait until you get issues prior to reducing the gap down.

There wont be any issues running a smaller gap with new splitfires BUT it's not optimum. See first line ^^

Edited by Sinista32

Cheers sinista sounds like a plan I'll give them a shot

And cheers got that jiffo

I'm not the smartest with a multimeter so how exactly do I set it up to measure the ohms and I'm obviously unplugging the sensor correct?

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