Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you remove the lower timing belt cover without removing the front pulley??

I've taken out the bolts x 4 with the rubber grommets but can't seem to be able to remove the cover. Its loose and wants to come but moves about 5mm then goes no further.

The manual isn't much help, it just says to remove it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456165-lower-timing-belt-cover/
Share on other sites

So just to clarify........the bolts you are talking about are behind the front pulley and balancer?

I already took out the ones holding the cover up each side and the one underneath.

If I have to get the front pulley off to get it out thats fine, will tackle that as another job.

Just trying to replace the water pump. Get the lower cover off and I'm home and hosed.

Also having a hell of a time trying to get the coolant drain for the block out, its as tight as, not enough room to do it and the bloody head of the bolt is too small 14mm [plus ist been butchered before a bit]. Might have to tear the split dump off - and that seems excessive for one bung. Looked at taking the water line off the turbo but it is also too hard and a bit higher in the block. Reckon I'll get a bit of hex bar turned up and replace the bolt/bung with a longer 'bolt head' this way at least I'd get a good swing at it next time..

BTW is anyone running with waterless coolant, thinking of trying out. Not so much for the better cooling but I like the non corrosive idea.

Duh....I just thought of the tutorials and there is a v.good one there. One day I'll actually 'get my sh1t together.................

Now another question, how does the steel pipe/spigot mounted in the alloy housing above the water pump come out? and can I replace it? Its the one that the radiator hose pushes over for the motor. Is it just a press fit? And are they an item you can purchase?

And no reply on my waterless coolant question, anyone using it?

Are we talking stock manifold?

There is nothing listed in fast for just the bit of pipe. I know it is seperate on the Greddy/Freddy manifolds. If you have the money the easiest thing would be to take it to an engineering shop and see if they can machine or remove the old one out and make a new one up. I'm not sure if its press fit or not, as I suspect it always comes installed in the manifold if it is press fit etc

yeah its the one above the thermostat, its cast with the standard inlet manifold. I'd like to replace the steel part, does anyone have a 'fix' for this?

And is the steel fitting hard to get out? I tried spinning it with multigrips but it didn't move. I'd say that if I used the oxy set and warmed the alloy around it I may have a better chance but not much use if I can't replace it with something better.

Note that I don't have the manifold out, was looking to see if its doable without removal........but probably asking too much.

No it's still structurally sound, but has surface rust. Motor is untouched [except for Tomei cams] with 90k on it. Not looking to rebuild until i need to. Plus I have an RB30 and a spare reco'd RB25 head converted for internal oil to the vct so will probably rebuild it/set it up for +400rwkw and see how I go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...