Jump to content
SAU Community

New Wasteland Wa Topic

Hattori Hanzo 69

By Hattori Hanzo 69,
in WA Wasteland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Stinky Rooster Grand Master

Stinky Rooster

Posted
Posted

Elle to fix the control arms any cheaper you might have to go aftermarket.

Its actually a pretty old dodgy trick from manufacturers for aaaages. Even Ford did a similar thing, by cold riveting the lower ball joints to the arms, then only listing a part number for the complete lower arm - not just the ball joint.

Price about 10 years ago was $600+ per side for the arm from ford

 

or $35 for a ball joint, complete with bolts to replace the rivets...

  • Like 3
  • Replies 16.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • t_revz

    4187

  • ElleAli76

    2512

  • shoey85

    1445

  • Beyond Blue R33

    1294

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Manne
Manne

She got tinted!!

t_revz
t_revz

OMFG just had the funniest moment.   Sanae asks me if ive been washing my filthy greasy hands in the kids bathroom sink as there is black spots that wont come off no matter how much she trie

z00key
z00key

Just got back from dr (had harmony test, test for down syndrome) everything all good and found out sex, its a boy! Yeah

Posted Images

R33kizza Experienced

R33kizza

Posted
Posted
36 minutes ago, Stinky Rooster said:

Elle to fix the control arms any cheaper you might have to go aftermarket.

Its actually a pretty old dodgy trick from manufacturers for aaaages. Even Ford did a similar thing, by cold riveting the lower ball joints to the arms, then only listing a part number for the complete lower arm - not just the ball joint.

Price about 10 years ago was $600+ per side for the arm from ford

 

or $35 for a ball joint, complete with bolts to replace the rivets...

Same thing with bmws..... lol

  • Like 2
Beyond Blue R33 Mentor

Beyond Blue R33

Posted
Posted
Elle to fix the control arms any cheaper you might have to go aftermarket.
Its actually a pretty old dodgy trick from manufacturers for aaaages. Even Ford did a similar thing, by cold riveting the lower ball joints to the arms, then only listing a part number for the complete lower arm - not just the ball joint.
Price about 10 years ago was $600+ per side for the arm from ford
 
or $35 for a ball joint, complete with bolts to replace the rivets...
Here comes the rooster. I reckon dale is on the money.
  • Like 1
Beyond Blue R33 Mentor

Beyond Blue R33

Posted
Posted


You think alike with dave , he said that before but guess the qualified mechanics should knows better lol no offense! [emoji23]
Yep I agree wouldn't touch your beast with a barge pole. Trolley jack scissor jacks and ramps in my car port. Would look hilarious;-)
  • Like 1
ElleAli76 Grand Master

ElleAli76

Posted
Posted
Elle to fix the control arms any cheaper you might have to go aftermarket.

Its actually a pretty old dodgy trick from manufacturers for aaaages. Even Ford did a similar thing, by cold riveting the lower ball joints to the arms, then only listing a part number for the complete lower arm - not just the ball joint.

Price about 10 years ago was $600+ per side for the arm from ford

 

or $35 for a ball joint, complete with bolts to replace the rivets...

 

Don’t get me wrong , I won’t be happy to spend $1700 for the bushes but Nissan’s has design it specifically and I doubt after market bushes would fit in nicely ?

 

There maybe other way round it I don’t know ? Bushes are made from rubber, Nolathane , urethane or softer metal alloy and these bushes may been inserted during the manufacture of the control arm and not slip in and out of the assembly.

 

 

So either $1700 or pay for 2nd hand on eBay

shoey85 Veteran

shoey85

Posted
Posted
 
Don’t get me wrong , I won’t be happy to spend $1700 for the bushes but Nissan’s has design it specifically and I doubt after market bushes would fit in nicely ?
 
There maybe other way round it I don’t know ? Bushes are made from rubber, Nolathane , urethane or softer metal alloy and these bushes may been inserted during the manufacture of the control arm and not slip in and out of the assembly.
 
 
So either $1700 or pay for 2nd hand on eBay


Wait for Hanky to get back then sort it out with him it doesn’t sound super urgent
  • Like 2
t_revz Grand Master

t_revz

Posted
Posted

Ill see if she can Tuesday when I have a day off. She might need a hand with questions as Sanae has no idea about cars.

I’d go aftermarket personally, but not the cheap cheap stuff. It’s not like you track the car and punish it through corners. Some aftermarket is as good as genuine and for the price I’d be a tight ass

ElleAli76 Grand Master

ElleAli76

Posted
Posted
Ill see if she can Tuesday when I have a day off. She might need a hand with questions as Sanae has no idea about cars.

I’d go aftermarket personally, but not the cheap cheap stuff. It’s not like you track the car and punish it through corners. Some aftermarket is as good as genuine and for the price I’d be a tight ass



If you can recommend any good aftermarket not cheap cheap stuff then , that would be great , any helps would be good :)

And Apparently I need to be a bit more aggressive with the car [emoji594]- hence one of the reasons it’s clunking.

Nite boys and thank you !
  • Like 1
ElleAli76 Grand Master

ElleAli76

Posted
Posted
Wow 1700bucks for stock pay the same n get fully adjustable made by high end after market company TOP SECRET.

https://www.nengun.com/top-secret/front-upper-arm-for-r35



Nice ! Thanks Mark , ill have a read and wait for Lochy :)
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Duncan
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
    • BOLGE
      R34 Plug Identification

      By BOLGE · Posted

      legend thanks mate !
    • fatz
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By fatz · Posted

      Skidz
×
×
  • Create New...