Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my sleeper r33 gtst ( series1 ) 1994 5 speed since i got a motorbike i have no need for it

Bought it off my friend that manufacturers turbos in somerton.

Car has serious work done about $80k on the engine fully forged, stengthend gear box and diff, twin plate clutch, 1200cc injectors running on e85 350k atw at 15-20 psi. Also comes with a high mount set up which he had it running at around 500kw atw.

Body is in good condition for its age

Has a crack in the front bumper and stone chips

if you have any questions just ask.

Will put more photos up soon

post-140193-0-39991000-1432612024_thumb.jpg

post-140193-0-64575600-1432612110_thumb.jpg

Edited by scottyjd

My mate gave me the top mount piping that bolts on when he sold it to me, theres also a usb cord to the ecu in the passenger seat he said you can just dyno it and re tune it to 500kw with the plug in and the piping.

Either OP is talking out of his ass, or his "mate" that told him he spent 80k on the engine.

OP did he tell you that after you put about fifteen grand in it or more, and if you have to, overnight parts from japan you will have a 10 second car? Did Jesse say it will decimate all?

7272879_gal.jpg

Maybe he ment over the years changing engine parts or rebuild. I dont know skylines as well as you guys the car speaks for itself when you drive it. Battery is on deep charge at the moment

I think you need to clarify with your friend 100% on what he means because you're claiming 80k spent on the motor which for what you said has been done simply wouldn't cost that much.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...