Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I have a 32 GTR with a few mods, nistune, 34 afms, unsure on turbos (only just got the car), built motor, 34 crank, camtec cams, etc etc,

The car is running very rich and stalls when I come up to a set of traffic lights, it is running standard bovs, would a vacuum leak cause this to happen? What is generally the cause of a vac leak in an RB26? Are there any common hoses that deteriorate quicker than others?

Thanks!!!

Vac leak would make it run lean when off boost if the leak is in the inlet manifold . rich if its a boost leak in a cooler pipe.

Did it always do it@

You should really take it somewhere and run it on a Dyno to check it out.

You have the stock bov's but are they actually functioning correctly and plumbed back? If they aren't that is probably your issue.

Run it on the dyno or do a smoke test to find your leaks after checking the BOVs. It could be poorly tuned also contributing with the leak resulting in the car stalling.

Thanks for the help guys, the car previously made 400rwkw then has been put into storage for a while and there are now a few issues to sort out. What vac lines are under the plenum that could have perished or might be leaking???

well a smoke test is the best way to get to find a vacuum leak, but it requires specialist equipment. Easiest thing to do is to give it to someone who does this all the time unless you are familiar, there are billions of pipes and they won't be standard on your setup

As far as finding it yourself, I'd start with the main intercooler pipes in the engine bay and under the front bar, they are by far the most likely. They check the BOV return lines wherever they plumb back in. Then the boost controller lines and their attachment to the wastegate. Then however your AAC is linked up, that should cover most of the vacuum lines.

If you don't know what it is don't touch it? Got a workshop around that is experienced with Skylines that can help you out? Smoke test and getting the vehicle on a hoist will help significantly.

I'd still put money on it being the BOVs or a combination of BOVs being not plumbed back, broken and the ECU tune being rich to begin with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...