Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm scarred.

The car does have a little damage where somebody has tried to jimmy the door open. Also the front bar is a little damaged to (someone tried to remove it)

The car does have a little bit of white smoke coming out the exhaust however after a few revs it went away and didnt come back.

Anyway the price is such that I could afford to fix the door and a turbo even 2 if need be a still be doing ok.

Apart from that I checked the car thoroughly and it looks good.

* Checked the radiator for white deposits near the cap - none.

* No rust in the boot.

* No unusual sounds from drivetrain, gbox or engine.

* No perceivable leaks engine or otherwise

* Interior clean.

* Rest of panels straight.

* Engine sounded good and normal.

* 70k on clock (who really knows)

* 95 model

* 400r side skirts, front bar and bonnet (might be fake i wouldnt know)

* supplied with safety certificate and rego

* aftermarket exhaust looks to be only cat back

* pods (m's?)

* Enkei wheels 17in i think.

Fingers crossed i get it and it turns out ok. Either way I will let u guys know.

I'm an impulsive idiot but I did have a dam good look at everything I know a bit

about mechanicals etc - and I know people etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45734-omg-i-just-put-a-deposit-on-a-r33gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I guess you didn't read the FAQ on buying a Skyline then sad2.gif

The two most important points you missed:

GET THE CAR UP ON A HOIST!!!!
Don't buy the vehicle the first time you see it. Go home and have a GOOD think about it. One more day isn't going to kill you, but it might stop you from making a bad impulse decision.

You should never have to tell yourself: "Fingers crossed i get it and it turns out ok" :D:P

I can't believe the engine was blowing smoke, and you didn't get a compresssion test done on it, and bought it anyway.... :uhh: :uhh:

Correction I havent bought it just put a deposit on it.

Lergo I have arranged for an onsite compression test

and pre purchase inspection this wednesday 12-2pm

for $150.

If I don't go through with the purchase I loose my $450

deposit plus the $150 comp test or $600.

Figure its worth taking the punt on for $600.

I feel better now.

The thought of owning a 33GTR is really freaking me out.

I need to settle. Then I need to think about alarms. That's

the thing that worries me the most its 2x the thief magnet

than my gtst.

Ok guys I need advice on engine/vin/chassis numbers.

It doesn't look right to me, I did find it hard to read

his writing. I will verify myself under the bonnet

and check the numbers with REVS before purchase

but here goes.

Engine : RB26047818A (seems ok)

VIN/Chassis: 6T91MPAAAR1BFH002

Thats doesnt look anything like my

gtst's number. I would have expected

a BNR33 or similar?

He's got writing like a doctor!

Mmmmm I am really starting to worry about this white smoke.

It occurred when the car was idling after being cold. Had it idling

for about 10mins.

The guy tried to convince me that all his cars did that after they

had been washed?

After reving a few times it did go away though?

The smoke was kind of blowing out and wafting vertically from

the tip it seemed very diffuse and light. Not blowing straight

out like I' ve seen other smoky zorsts do.

Mmmmm I am really starting to worry about this white smoke.

It occurred when the car was idling after being cold. Had it idling

for about 10mins.

The guy tried to convince me that all his cars did that after they

had been washed?

After reving a few times it did go away though?

The smoke was kind of blowing out and wafting vertically from

the tip it seemed very diffuse and light. Not blowing straight

out like I' ve seen other smoky zorsts do.

Im not sure whether to forget about it and save myself the $150.

I mean even with a pre inspectin check and compression test

the problem may not be identified, right.

This car is around $30k registered btw. Yes cheap for a 33R.

Mmmmm I am really starting to worry about this white smoke.

It occurred when the car was idling after being cold. Had it idling

for about 10mins.

The guy tried to convince me that all his cars did that after they

had been washed?

After reving a few times it did go away though?

The smoke was kind of blowing out and wafting vertically from

the tip it seemed very diffuse and light. Not blowing straight

out like I' ve seen other smoky zorsts do.

Im not sure whether to forget about it and save myself the $150.

I mean even with a pre inspectin check and compression test

the problem may not be identified, right.

MMM.. im starting to get worried about the repeats... :D

Adding to the white smoke, may i ask... for such a stock car with stock wheels etc.. why does it have a fibreglass bonnet and what seems to be a fibreglass copy of the original front bar that is missing the orignal indicators and surround. Also a grill that looks like a copy with no GTR badge? Another thing to think about...

I wouldnt normally give my thoughts but think you should really consider some things i mentioned. :headspin:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...