Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just read this thread on wrx.com.au; http://forum.wrx.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=74513

Very interesting read, from the guy that bought a 2 door STi at auction with GX plates, the investigation by the members and the revelation at the end of the thread that the guy wants to sell the car with 100% markup irrespective of its shady past.

A seriously good lesson to be learned;

Dont trust dealers

Do your homework on any car you want to buy

Dont be evil - own up if you make a mistake, dont pass that shit on to somebody else.

Don't trust dealers

Any car plate / compliance / purchase horror stories like this one?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457523-dodgy-plates-on-a-wrx/
Share on other sites

My bro used to own a Swift GTi, great little car... bought it from a mate of mine, who in turn, bought it from a car yard in Bankstown

We were noobs at the time and didn't really look into the history of the car or anything, but on the papers its was a Swift GA, a base model with a three cylinder engine. We thought it was an RTA error and didnt think much of it, until my bro went to trade the car in.

The car yard accepted the trade-in, all went well until a few days later when they called back and said, this is not a proper GTi. It had a totally different VIN on the body, compared to the plate, and was in fact a GA, that was fitted with GTi driveline, interior, bodykit, dash etc. They asked us about who sold the car and eventually traced the whole thing back to the car yard in Bansktown that went "bankrupt" shortly after.

The mate who bought the car from the yard originally, was a noob at the time as well and had no idea what he bought, he actually replaced the Swift with a Corolla GTi that was in a rollover and so badly repaired, all the door seals leaked water when it rained and had bits and pieces from corollas and holden novas used in the repair (slightly different guards, blinkers, lights etc)

Good lesson to check all the numbers and not just assume errors...

  • Like 1

i like how he states he is a private seller, then went on to say "i run a car lot mate, it's my job"

Yep. Total personality backflip;

I'm a naive private buyer with no idea => I'm in the industry and know this stuff.

Amazing.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...