Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, before peoples panties get twisted into oblivion, hear me out. The Hypergear turbo thread currently has 10953 REPLIES and 548 pages and so its a bit much to ask for me to read through them all to find my answer. It would take weeks.

Here it goes.

I have a Rb25det R33 with FMIC, oil cooler, full exhaust and a new highflow Hypergear turbo. I'm later planning to get fuel pump, Z32 AFM and nistune upgrades, but until then I'll be driving it around as is. Im currently on standard boost as Im not sure what's safe to run (and yes, for best results I should take it to a dyno, I know).

My very simple questions for those who have trodden the same path is, what boost can I run this combo of parts SAFELY before I run out of air and or fuel and damage my engine?

Help from those who have done this is much appreciated.

Thanks

you need injectors and afm, nistune are great (we are one of their biggest customers) but not on r33, go powerfc. We pull 2 or 3 nistunes out of r33 a month that have been tuned elsewhere that just dont perform right. The dont work properley as you have to retro fit another ecu from R32 or Z32 into the r33, there are certain background trims that can play havoc that are not adjustable.

Nistune is the worst thing you could do. I've run out of fingers to count the number of 33's in the pits not working because of 'something' wrong with the car running nistune.

I's get a pfc asap and get it tuned. It's not if, but when the engine will let go when it's underload and on boost.

I know someone that's running one on 12psi and pulling hard too, no problems but don't know how long that will last, yes I know pretty silly and ive told them too, it has a mines ecu which is probably running very rich, its a rocket though!!

Edited by AngryRB

So Status, Power FC would be the best for an R33? As its a street car keeping everything working smoothly for day to day use would be my priority, with a good, safe tune being a very close second.

I knew that R33s required a different approach with nistune, but if its going to be an unreliable solution, then sure, best to avoid.

The turbo has the OEM wastegate still on it and I recon, with what people are saying, I'm going to keep it at stock boost. Damn, my shopping list for parts is growing tho.

Ahh, cars....

nistune is fine if you use a Z32 or R32 ecu and is probably cheaper than a PFC if you're looking 2nd hand

beware with the R32 ECU you will need an external switch for VCT as the R32 RB20det and RB25de didn't have VCT

nistune is fine if you use a Z32 or R32 ecu and is probably cheaper than a PFC if you're looking 2nd hand

beware with the R32 ECU you will need an external switch for VCT as the R32 RB20det and RB25de didn't have VCT

I'm pretty sure the nistune update has allowed vct to be controlled by either the led light output or air con output with a 32 ecu.
  • Like 1

Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions.

And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brands/models to consider?

Emailed Stao after getting and fitting the turbo and never got a reply. I also think its best to get some real world information before approaching a tuner, hence asking for all your opinions.

And on that, do we think that Power FC is the best/ a good approach for tuning an R33 to be a reliable street car (with all the various needs and functions of a street car; cold start etc etc) or are there other popular brandsMelbourne goto see o consider?

I dont think i have received your email.

I can supply adaptronic plug in at a special price if interested. If u r in Melbourne goto see chequred tuning.

Make sure u have fuel mods, 3 inches metal induction pipe, pod, good fmic, 3inches free flow tubo back exhaust and a good clutch before going for tuning.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...