Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there

Have owned my R32 for about 5 years now, never had any issues with the 4wd light, however the last few weeks it's suddenly started coming on when I pull in and out of driveways ? Turn the car off then back on and all is fine, doesn't come on when I stop at lights or drive on bumpy roads etc.

Checked the error code and I had 8 flashes which is the ABS issue, however the car has had it's ABS disabled since well before I owned it.

Also to note is about 6 weeks ago I had all fluids / oils etc changed in car, tacho was replaced as the previous one died.

So main question is has anyone had this issue before ? And if so what was the solution ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/457951-r32-attesa-issue/
Share on other sites

Toothbrush and degreaser, hands and knees and/or garage creeper. Clean the wheel speed sensors and code wheels. See if that helps. Also look for broken/dodgy wiring to the sensors.

Toothbrush and degreaser,

Hands and knees/or garage creeper,

Doing it yourself will work cheaper.

Look for broken stuff with your peepers.

Seriously surprised I had to rewrite that for you.

Do you have something that will read the output of the sensors other than the attessa computer?

Not too sure to be honest, the ABS was removed before I brought the car, it has a power FC but I'm guessing that wouldn't do too much. Just seems weird it only happens when going real slow into driveways. The front torque gauge on the dash maxes out and just stays there until I turn the car off

I don't think you could properly check the sensors with a meter. They do output pulsed voltage as the code wheel passes, but you'd be better off with a portable oscilloscope to see the waveform looks right.

Yeh no dramas, might start off by giving underneath a clean and see how that goes, thanks for all the suggestions.

Cheers

I don't think you could properly check the sensors with a meter. They do output pulsed voltage as the code wheel passes, but you'd be better off with a portable oscilloscope to see the waveform looks right.

Youre not really trying to read the waveforn, merely to see if the sensor is dead or not. You have four and need to figure out which one is the problem. Does the error code tell you which corner is stuffed?

Youre not really trying to read the waveforn, merely to see if the sensor is dead or not. You have four and need to figure out which one is the problem. Does the error code tell you which corner is stuffed?

I agree. But digital multimeters are usually too slow to react to fast changing signals to be able to pick out a sensor which is bad, but not completely dead, if you know what I mean.

Mine does the same thing,except when i do a full on launch,but only every now and then.Same code as you and my car has never had abs from factory.Ive cleaned all the sensors and checked the wiring but still does it occasionally.The gauge freaks out too when it happens so i think its the G sensor.Ive purchased an ETS PRO controller so we will see if this fixers it

The abs and the attessa are only linked in the sense that they are triggered from the same sensors. So whether or not you have abs doesnt change the sensors if I understand it correctly. The sensors feed the AWD system and the abs.

The gauge properly goes ape because it thinks you have no wheel speed from one corner and does what it thinks it needs to do to fix it. Which is presumably max front torque?

Anyway fingers crossed it is only a wet and or dislodged sensor.

Mine does the same thing,except when i do a full on launch,but only every now and then.Same code as you and my car has never had abs from factory.Ive cleaned all the sensors and checked the wiring but still does it occasionally.The gauge freaks out too when it happens so i think its the G sensor.Ive purchased an ETS PRO controller so we will see if this fixers it

Yeh let me know how you go with the controller, mine has a torque split controller but I have always just had it set to the factory 4wd setting.

Thinking that perhaps when underneath was all degreased etc that something was maybe dislodged or some crap has gone over some of the sensors. Right now it's not a massive issue just more annoying than anything else.

Cheers

The abs and the attessa are only linked in the sense that they are triggered from the same sensors. So whether or not you have abs doesnt change the sensors if I understand it correctly. The sensors feed the AWD system and the abs.

The gauge properly goes ape because it thinks you have no wheel speed from one corner and does what it thinks it needs to do to fix it. Which is presumably max front torque?

Anyway fingers crossed it is only a wet and or dislodged sensor.

That makes sense too, might try jump under the car this arvo and have a look. Thanks mate

Update: jumped under the car and gave the speed sensors a quick clean this arvo with a toothbrush and a bit of cloth.

Reversed the car out of the garage down driveway onto the street and bam 4wd light comes on (but torque needle didn't budge on dash) did the usual and turned the car off and on, took it for a quick spin around the block for a few min, pulled back into driveway...and surprisingly no 4wd light came on.

So not sure if the issue is sorted yet but fingers crossed :)

Edited by Sunny_Coast32

My one randomly craps out as well. Sensor said right wheel speed sensor. Looks like I'll have to drop the diff to change it, so just put up with it for now lol.

Yeah I can't imagine you would be able to change the speed sensors without removing the diff ?

It's just more of an annoyance to be honest, but I'll see how it goes when I get a chance to take it for a drive again.

Sometimes when the 4wd light comes on randomly it can be the Attessa Accumulator above the rear diff (Nitrogen canister).

They are 25yrs old and empty/fail which can cause random issues like yours.

Just a thought as replacing mine made a hell of a difference.

And resolved my issue with the 4wd/abs light randomly coming on which is annoying.

However the major improvement was engaging the 4wd system itself.

Edited by Sinista32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...