Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Currently making 415rwkw with a gtx3582 .82 rear housing on 27-28lb boost. What's the best way of getting close to or over 500kw? Would a bigger rear housing suffice ? If not what turbo is the next logical size up. Running a forged motor with all Nitto gear. Currently out of fuel system (single walbro 460lph) so couldn't push more , ill be adding two extra 044 fuel pumps into the mix

Edited by Gta51
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Would the biggest size tomei poncams help boost it aswell? fairly sure I have stock cams in it atm.

Cars a street car so I want to stay away from nitro meth etc loll

Im thinking a 1.06 rear housing, cams, and abit more boost should get me close to that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/#findComment-7567193
Share on other sites

If you have a GTX35 and only making 400-420rwkw though @ 27-28psi you've kinda got a problem... Assuming you are on E85 as well.

Should be a bit more than that. A GT35 will do 400rwkw on E85 with that amount of boost. The GTX flows more air, it should be well past it and around 440rwkw or more.

Could be a restriction somewhere or something else entirely. I'd be working out what is wrong first before going for more power/part changing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/#findComment-7567818
Share on other sites

But a 500kW turbo LS is a very much more "streetable" engine than a 500kW 2.5 L RB!!

It's funny when the "400-500rwkw" street guys get asked what MPH they run, quite often it's FAR lower than what it should be.

Proof is always in the pudding there :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/#findComment-7567915
Share on other sites

So agree with nismoid.

I remember a long time ago when this wasn't the case.

Ahh the good old days when saying you had a fast car actually meant, ummm, you actually had a fast car.

Mph will always rule the roost.

So agree with nismoid.

I remember a long time ago when this wasn't the case.

Ahh the good old days when saying you had a fast car actually meant, ummm, you actually had a fast car.

Mph will always rule the roost.

most cars cant handle it... we have high 300 cars running 9-10 then 500kw cars running 10-12s lol.... MPH is no longer an accurate SOLE indicator

perfect example

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/#findComment-7567977
Share on other sites

If you have a GTX35 and only making 400-420rwkw though @ 27-28psi you've kinda got a problem... Assuming you are on E85 as well.

Should be a bit more than that. A GT35 will do 400rwkw on E85 with that amount of boost. The GTX flows more air, it should be well past it and around 440rwkw or more.

Could be a restriction somewhere or something else entirely. I'd be working out what is wrong first before going for more power/part changing.

Stock cams and a single fuel pump limited me. Once I add another pump and cams I'll see that figure with a retune I'm fairly sure. I get what your saying though :)

Edited by Gta51
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/#findComment-7568060
Share on other sites

most cars cant handle it... we have high 300 cars running 9-10 then 500kw cars running 10-12s lol.... MPH is no longer an accurate SOLE indicator

perfect example

Yeah but in GTS-t / GT-R land - There are so many results it's pretty easy to work it out where a car should be (say +/- 3/4mph). Some cars are like 10mph down (some are up lol), that ain't a result of a car that can't handle the power. Generally from what I've seen, if you have less traction you end up with slightly higher MPH - big more bragging rights at the pub isn't necessarily a bad thing lol :)

Most R33 GTS-t owners with 300-340rwkw are around the ~127mph

R33 GT-Rs with 300-340rwkw get around the ~124mph, if it's a R32 you're a little higher as you weigh less and so on.

Of course it's never gonna be 100% accurate, but you can get in the ballpark. Same as when someone posts up their GT-R is making 370rwkw on -9s never got anymore than like 120mph... Result debunked, you didn't have 370rwkw! Not a chance.

Then there was a 450rwkw 33 GT-R recently in NSW I saw that I think was like 124/125mph. Even without doing a big launch, something ain't right, it should be over 130mph easy.. Either it didn't have the power on the night or someone was singing hey diddle diddle in the dyno room

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/#findComment-7568089
Share on other sites

Stock cams and a single fuel pump limited me. Once I add another pump and cams I'll see that figure with a retune I'm fairly sure. I get what your saying though :)

I had a big post for ya and my internet died lol. Poop.

Anyway I think fix the fuel pump and then see? It's pretty easy to do... IMO you should've run outta fuel before you got to 28psi. That's a LOT of pressure/flow needed outta the pump. Guys here on PULP have made ~370rwkw with a GT35 and stock RB25 head (around the 22psi marker). Then to get the 400 E85 and a bit more boost, and that's a smaller huffer and you really are running some good boost.

I mean look it might be nothing, or maybe you'll find 30rwkw easy just getting the fuel it needs? Even something simple like dropping the exhaust at the dump/cat you might just pick up 30rwkw. Sometimes even with a little restriction a set-up can still perform very well, just not perfectly type thing.

Obviously with head/cams etc you will potentially make more but something currently just doesn't sound right if you know what I mean? I'd be sorting the bits around it and checking a couple things first if you haven't already

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/#findComment-7568097
Share on other sites

most cars cant handle it... we have high 300 cars running 9-10 then 500kw cars running 10-12s lol.... MPH is no longer an accurate SOLE indicator

perfect example

https://youtu.be/Po10g8VGKTI

ETs have always indicated setup, MPH have always indicated power

Nothing has changed.

Dynos lie, MPH don't.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/#findComment-7568099
Share on other sites

I had a big post for ya and my internet died lol. Poop.

Anyway I think fix the fuel pump and then see? It's pretty easy to do... IMO you should've run outta fuel before you got to 28psi. That's a LOT of pressure/flow needed outta the pump. Guys here on PULP have made ~370rwkw with a GT35 and stock RB25 head (around the 22psi marker). Then to get the 400 E85 and a bit more boost, and that's a smaller huffer and you really are running some good boost.

I mean look it might be nothing, or maybe you'll find 30rwkw easy just getting the fuel it needs? Even something simple like dropping the exhaust at the dump/cat you might just pick up 30rwkw. Sometimes even with a little restriction a set-up can still perform very well, just not perfectly type thing.

Obviously with head/cams etc you will potentially make more but something currently just doesn't sound right if you know what I mean? I'd be sorting the bits around it and checking a couple things first if you haven't already

Spot on fuel pump was the biggest limiting factor for me. So I'm going to add another Walbro or two 044 pumps. Might aswell add cams since I'm getting retuned, always wanted to do that anyway

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458183-500kw-rb25det/#findComment-7568108
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done.  
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
×
×
  • Create New...