Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First of all, this is a discussion around understanding the potential differences between Stagea's and Skylines, to understand why there may be less power achieved whilst having similar mods rather an expectations.

Secondly, it is also to discuss and understand the differences between using different qualities of products and results achieved, as some people have reliably achieved good performance gains from using less superior products and parts. This is not to mention that everyone has different build/upgrade budgets and its a means of determining whats myth and fact.

Thirdly, I'm not sure what the relevance of your post really is besides trying to be sarcastic, which seems to be the common traits of most keyboard warriors on this site and forum. If you don't have anything relevant or useful to say keep your heroic bullshit to yourself as its a waste of everyone's time. I would have thought that the whole point of this site is to get enthusiast together to constructively talk about a common interest in cars etc.

By putting that post up, what were you really trying to achieve other than wasting 5 mins of your time being a keyboard warrior, rather than trying to provide some constructive feedback/advice????

Seriously...

  • 9 months later...

M35 Stagea

Just fitted Denso 570's and E-manage.

Previous mods include : Scotty dump, Legalis R exhaust, AMPerformance intake, ATP High flow and Greddy FV BOV

219 kw at 16psi.

Whilst that was pretty much my goal, top end power wasn't important to me.

I was hoping to run over 20 psi but stock intercooler appears to be inadequate.

High air temps and high risk of DET so tuned back for safety.

Previosly had a boost-t in place as there was massive boost creep with the factory solenoid.

Probably due to the 1mm restrictor in the vac line, which I discovered later.

My Turbosmart boost-t was stuck out the whole time I had it fitted and didn't even realise. It didn't turn anti anymore whilst the plunger was out 15mm.

Was hitting boost cut.

Currently running straight of Scottys actuator spring, holds 16 psi nicely. No boost controller at all.

So overall, can runs nicely but a bit disappointed in low down accelleration.

Car went harder pretune with stock injectors.

So hoping HDI GT2 Pro will make the difference, then back on the dyno.

Dyno1.pdf

M35 Stagea

Just fitted Denso 570's and E-manage.

Previous mods include : Scotty dump, Legalis R exhaust, AMPerformance intake, ATP High flow and Greddy FV BOV

219 kw at 16psi.

Whilst that was pretty much my goal, top end power wasn't important to me.

I was hoping to run over 20 psi but stock intercooler appears to be inadequate.

High air temps and high risk of DET so tuned back for safety.

Previosly had a boost-t in place as there was massive boost creep with the factory solenoid.

Probably due to the 1mm restrictor in the vac line, which I discovered later.

My Turbosmart boost-t was stuck out the whole time I had it fitted and didn't even realise. It didn't turn anti anymore whilst the plunger was out 15mm.

Was hitting boost cut.

Currently running straight of Scottys actuator spring, holds 16 psi nicely. No boost controller at all.

So overall, can runs nicely but a bit disappointed in low down accelleration.

Car went harder pretune with stock injectors.

So hoping HDI GT2 Pro will make the difference, then back on the dyno.

Stock turbo still?

If the car felt stronger pre-tune, then Jez likely took timing out of the midrange. Most tuners will do that to protect the engine, these VQ's run a lot of timing off boost, and it's hard to talk a tuner into leaving the timing in there.

  • 1 month later...

So after new intercooler and changing boost from 16 to 20 , car feels great.

Powerful smooth accelleration.

Still have a slight rumble on idle, tbc

219 to 237 kw.

ATP high flow still hangin in there- slight whine - suspect minor shaft warpage on a boost cut pre tune.

570 densos

HDI GT2

Walbro 255

e-manage

Fujitsubo Legalis-R

post-25026-0-61183000-1466822358_thumb.jpg

Edited by conan7772
  • Like 1

So after new intercooler and changing boost from 16 to 20 , car feels great.

Powerful smooth accelleration.

Still have a slight rumble on idle, tbc

219 to 237 kw.

ATP high flow still hangin in there- slight whine - suspect minor shaft warpage on a boost cut pre tune.

570 densos

HDI GT2

Walbro 255

e-manage

Fujitsubo Legalis-

Good result! (Please turn chart right way up in future - bad for my neck...)

  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...
  • 5 months later...

 

On 5/26/2017 at 8:25 PM, DaveBb said:

C34 S2 AWD 

20877_10153702976244842_3575515112978108294_n.jpg

12670882_10153702976204842_1379817398439077046_n.jpg

can you please provide a breakdown of mods done to achieve what you've got there?

I have a series 2 auto and am looking to get around the same numbers, so would be interested to see what is required to get in that ball park.

The info is on the second chart:  Nistune chip, Z32 afm, 3in exhaust, stock manifolds, GTX36/71 and E85 fuel but it looks like still with SMIC.

I would suggest for you Nistune chip, Z32 AFM, suitable Hypergear turbo, 3in exhaust, FMIC and ID1000 or 750 injectors (I know the injectors look too big but these modern injectors will work well at low duty cycles).

To quote admS15:

Hypergear highflowed stock turbo will give you a bit more and will hold boost better up top and is direct bolt on. Power does tail off around 6500rpm but can make around 250-260rwkw and costs around $900.  Only negative thing about it is its journal bearing. Still works good. I have one, made 260kw on 98 and 312 on e85.

it is FMIC on those dyno pulls , SMIC wrong on print out , also runs forged pistons , big injectors , nitto 1.8mm head gasket  , ARP rods & studs on the head , previous owner got 248 awkw . has a high stall & shift kit also ... ( my numbers a bit low turns out a sneaky coolant leak into #5 from water gallery past head gasket issue had occurred took awhile to find that . head gasket lasted 10000kms  KiwiRS4T comments re injectors spot on. cheers 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello! Long time lurker, been using the forums to address concerns and questions from afar for a while but I've struggled to find some answers so I guess its about time I made an account and formally asked some more knowledgeable people, since finding local skyline owners is hard (and shops that are knowledgeable or trustworthy to work on 'rare' cars are non existent out where im at, as skylines are quite uncommon to find in the wild around here). So the main 3 questions I have, 1: Steering rack has blown seals, well.. they kind of hold but they are not sealed properly anymore and as my R33 is my DD, i cant exactly rip the rack out and send it off or attempt to fix myself. As most refurb ones are around $1,100 or more shipped, and I have other things I need to work on around the car, I was seeking clarification on whether an S15 rack will more or less bolt right in, and whether a common mechanic could do any other required work to get it to fit. I ask, as I've found a supplier than can sell a manufactured as oem one for around 400, if not I'll likely order a used one from Jacks JDM, and take a risk on the seals there. The second question i have is that im replacing the front wiper cowl and have planned to buy 4 new clips and a new center clip but wasnt sure if there were any other clips that would also need to get replaced while I was at it. Given im sure any that are there now will simply break when I remove the old cowl... Last thing would be a fairly straight forward question, i think. If I manage (strong if, finding one has proven to be a pain) to find a R33 GTR spoiler/wing will it require much modification to bolt to a S2 R33 GTST? I've read the bolt patterns dont match but otherwise would bolt in, only options I have found with much luck is China stuff on ebay and carbonetics, which has a nice $650 shipping fee... so if anyone has any pointers where a US chap could locate one that would be great Random side question as well, the mirrors as I understand are mirror glass, and as im planning to polish my windows from water spots and surface scratches, i was hopeful cerium oxide would be fine for them too, as my research points to, but clarification is always nice. Any pointers would be appreciated, and while I have scoured the internet for answers if I missed a prior post somewhere that may answer these directly please point me towards it, as i must have simply missed it. I have seen a post here or there that has mentioned it, but I usually get 50-50 answers, or half answers... I dont have a lot of fab experience or mechanic experience, outside of hydraulic and pneumatic stuff I did in the military and with how hard it is to source stuff in the US, id rather not wing it and hemmoraghe money lol. Thanks guys! Sorry for the monumental first post haha
    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
×
×
  • Create New...