Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've decided housing affordability = directly proportional to Alex's financial position

Well it goes a little against the grain of what your saying though doesn't it.. Cos if houses were more affordable.. Then more people would buy them so I'd make even more money.

Hrmm...

last realestate q for the day.

lets say I'm looking at a 250K block and a 350K house.

buying block off the plan so won;t be ready for a bit so will prob be at least 12 months between buy block and start house.

lets say i have 100K for deposit

How does that work with a loan.

Do I take out loan with full deposit for the block, then when ready for house refinance for the full amount.

or is the initial loan for the full amount and just withdraw and needed?

or take out loan with part the deposit for the house then use the rest when financed the house itself?

exactly right.

a farmer is sub diving a Padock into 6 lots

5 - 6 acres each.

but that said he needs to run power/water to each (that part of the advertisement) plus fencing and such.

it's interesting there 6 blocks 5 currently at 350K 1 at 280

so they obviously trying to work out what price they should be at, from other blocks seen for sale I think 5 are 220ish and the one I want 250-260K

Just offer what you feel it's worth in writing if he knocks it back no harm done

last realestate q for the day.

lets say I'm looking at a 250K block and a 350K house.

buying block off the plan so won;t be ready for a bit so will prob be at least 12 months between buy block and start house.

lets say i have 100K for deposit

How does that work with a loan.

Do I take out loan with full deposit for the block, then when ready for house refinance for the full amount.

or is the initial loan for the full amount and just withdraw and needed?

or take out loan with part the deposit for the house then use the rest when financed the house itself?

If it's 12 month settlement (title) you can't take out a loan as finance pre approvals are only valid for like 3 months so you pay deposit and work out the rest closer to settlement

But down the track you'd ideally borrow no more than 80% to avoid LMI

last realestate q for the day.

lets say I'm looking at a 250K block and a 350K house.

buying block off the plan so won;t be ready for a bit so will prob be at least 12 months between buy block and start house.

lets say i have 100K for deposit

How does that work with a loan.

Do I take out loan with full deposit for the block, then when ready for house refinance for the full amount.

or is the initial loan for the full amount and just withdraw and needed?

or take out loan with part the deposit for the house then use the rest when financed the house itself?

Are you going to be using a major registered builder like henley homes etc or is it a mates build type thing?

There are huge differences in how BICOE funding works depending on who's building it.

The long and the short of it, try to keep as much of your deposit free for the construction loan, not the land loan.

12 months apart they will be 2 separate deals.

So maybe use $30k max to pay deposit and legals for the block and keep as much of the remaining $70k as possible for the build.

Id try for 5% deposit on the land but if it's a developer likely they'll demand 10%

I read that as he needs to buy the land in entirity first, in which case he will need a bigger deposit for the LVR

Ham is correct.

the sub divide is passed with the council and shit but the work not done.

else would be easier.

I expect will take 12 months at least for the block to be ready to build

for ease of work this is the block looking at:

http://www.realestate.com.au/property-residential+land-vic-nagambie-201233937

and the builder something like:

http://diversebuilders.com.au/HomeDesigns/DesignDetails.aspx?dpk=20

(looking at a few builders but all similar)

and if you guys are confused think where I'm at!

That should all be doable as 1 deal so long as you pay the deposit out of your own pocket.

They are a registered builder so that deposit should be sufficient.

Ham is correct.

the sub divide is passed with the council and shit but the work not done.

else would be easier.

I expect will take 12 months at least for the block to be ready to build

for ease of work this is the block looking at:

http://www.realestate.com.au/property-residential+land-vic-nagambie-201233937

and the builder something like:

http://diversebuilders.com.au/HomeDesigns/DesignDetails.aspx?dpk=20

(looking at a few builders but all similar)

and if you guys are confused think where I'm at!

A rumpus, living room & family room. I wouldn't know what to do with all that space!

Makes my shoebox of a townhouse look even smaller in comparison to that haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..   
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...