Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So here we go.

I am currently building an RB2530, I will be updating thread step by step as build continues.

Goal will be to produce 400kw+ or try the best I can.

This will be done on a medium budget, but I will try the best I can to put the money in where it counts.

Any feedback or ideas would be great.

It all starts with the s2 rb30 block i picked up for $80, disassembled it myself and have since had it cleaned, decked, bored and honed.

Decked back to 0

Honed to 20thou

have picked up CP pistons(8.5:1 86.5mm), Manley rods and some king bearings

post-140209-0-85129100-1438519599_thumb.png

post-140209-0-32102900-1438519907_thumb.png

Edited by Dylan andrew
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458714-rb2530-build/
Share on other sites

Have now had stud girdle cleaned and had crank lynished

and have since decided to put on oil crank collar. so crank has been machined to fit, and installed.

have also picked up forged pistons and rods ;) CP pistons (8.5:1 86.5mm) and Manley rods and also got some king racing bearings

and all ARP head and main studs.

post-140209-0-65821900-1438520337_thumb.png

post-140209-0-32358700-1438520405_thumb.png

post-140209-0-37624700-1438520600_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458714-rb2530-build/#findComment-7579846
Share on other sites

So good news have picked up my 25det head, am yet to decide how I am going to modify it for the conversion

have heard there is an internal modification you can do for the oil feed, so will be looking into it, hopefully should be getting done soon.

kinda wishing I got a neo head, but to late now.

post-140209-0-18973700-1438520718_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458714-rb2530-build/#findComment-7579848
Share on other sites

Have purchased some more goodies for the build.

Ended up getting some Kelford cams from NZ and also some valve springs off them. got $300 import duty tax FML :rant:

I have been assured these spring can handle up to 30 psi boost before valve float, don't think ill be testing this theory, but its good to know.

Have also decided to delete the VCT, I will be running adjustable cam gears instead.

Getting closer and closer to assembly.

Will attach spec sheet of cams.

post-140209-0-73346200-1438521618_thumb.jpeg

post-140209-0-56020600-1438521652_thumb.png

post-140209-0-77718900-1438521669_thumb.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458714-rb2530-build/#findComment-7579853
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...