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Tips On Getting The Attessa 4wd To Engage Faster

MJTru
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r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

Easiest way is to tap a thread behind the actuator on the transfer case and use a bolt to pre load it.

Expensive way is the t case mod by changing the plates.

i love how this post give all the right answers and was completely ignored
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R31Nismoid
R31Nismoid

You'll be surprised how much difference just altering the plates in the transfer case will make. IMO it's 70% mechanical and 30% electronic. The gains you get from the transfer case "mod" (ie, rebui

GTR_JOEY
GTR_JOEY

Easiest way is to tap a thread behind the actuator on the transfer case and use a bolt to pre load it. Expensive way is the t case mod by changing the plates.

MJTru
MJTru

I have finally gotten a set of these disk from rhdjapan. FYI i spoke to mr. Hobbs and had him place the items on there site. (Search by part number) I was really suprised at how fast he got them to me

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MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
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Posted (edited)

Yes i agree that the post has some good and bad idea. But its intresting to see the ideas that we all have. Some are not practical at all but opens the door to understanding peoples point of views. Even though some makes no sense. Kind of like on any topic. Some will always sound crazy.

But here what happened to me.so far i changed the whole attessa pump. And man. I cant see a difference now between reaction time from my r33 gtr to this gts4. All i have now is traction. And yes all i do is drag race, i know lost of the guys here circuit race but some if not lost of things are common. I cant believe the difference this attessa pump made. When i was bleeding it up i noticed the difference right away. The manner in which the pump sounds and the pressure on the line. Now when i drive if i go on the gas a bit and bring in just a little bit of boost the front torque split gauge starts to move up to about 15% and now my 4wd light stays off on start up every time. Before it would come on. Then id have to stop cut the car off and restart it.

From the r33 to r32 i can without a doubt mension tye difference. First the r33 gtr is more relaxed for exsample. R32 whiles driving tends to always apply the front wheels on the r33 gtr this doesn't happen unless there is a slip condition.

Im still going to rebuild my transfercase and when these driven and drive plates come from greenline. (Much thanks there guys) next im working on have the manual engagement system worked out, but im going to install it in my r32 gtr. (Bare wit me it get confusing because i have a few cars i mess with.)

This gts4 chassis i experiment wit.

Thanks for all the ideas guys. Keep them coming. And if anyone has info where i can get a good manual system from please PM me. Thanks.

Edited by MJTru
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Talk to Robbie at RIPS, they run some sort of manualised system in their drag cars.

You can sort of see it in this vid-

That's Glenn Suckling's R32 which he bought and put one of his 3.2 Nitto engines in.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lol. No i dont think ill be doing that bolt mod. But i have ordered a set of friction plates and drive disks from greenline.

I hope these guys are for real and i dont have to visit them. After i paid no one is answering my emails. I wouldn't do business with them again.

If the disk do arrive i will rebuild the T-CASE. And try the manual system here is my first part that arrived. Attached photo.

I will get this to work. Im looking for the hydraulic pressure used for full lock on the T case. ???

I was trying to find the pressure from a video by looking at the gauge, but the image isn't clear enough.

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KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Lol. No i dont think ill be doing that bolt mod. But i have ordered a set of friction plates and drive disks from greenline.

I hope these guys are for real and i dont have to visit them. After i paid no one is answering my emails. I wouldn't do business with them again.

If the disk do arrive i will rebuild the T-CASE. And try the manual system here is my first part that arrived. Attached photo.

I will get this to work. Im looking for the hydraulic pressure used for full lock on the T case. ???

I was trying to find the pressure from a video by looking at the gauge, but the image isn't clear enough.

Robbie from RIPS has bought the car and is now dragging it. You could try an email - you might get a reply or not?!

http://www.ripsracing.com/

  • 2 weeks later...
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I will get this to work. Im looking for the hydraulic pressure used for full lock on the T case. ???

I looked into it, apparently 220psi stock. I was looking to bump that pressure up a bit in the Stagea.

ido09s Mentor

ido09s

Posted
Posted

I have done this mod to several track cars I used to work on and feedback was that it worked extremely well.

Something to be aware of though is that for a street car this wouldn't work all that well as it does leave the transfer case prelaoded at all times. You need to get under the car and adjust it as well, though adjustment is very easy given its just a bolt and locking nut.

  • 4 weeks later...
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have finally gotten a set of these disk from rhdjapan. FYI i spoke to mr. Hobbs and had him place the items on there site. (Search by part number) I was really suprised at how fast he got them to me.

This week i will be pulling the box out and ripping it apart (T-case) to replace these friction disks. I cant wait. Then ill focus on doing the manual pump system. I just wish there was a kit out there to buy from a store. If it gets to complicated for me ill just go get the torque split controller.

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  • 2 weeks later...
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Hmm. It was very easy to do. I just didnt change all the seals that most recommend. No leaks so far. I see what most said. Dont add the disk and block the oil drain holes in the friction disks drum.

My mistake was that i didnt soke the disk in oil before installing them. Notice it locked up in 4wd wit no oil. So we didnt want to take it all apart and came up with the idea to take the engagement piston out, then it started to free spin. So we added oil and spin it free hand as well as drowning it in oil making sure we wasted money buying oil and having the whole friction disk area soke in oil. (Dumb). we then measure the clearance and we were at the minimum of .008. Once soked wit oil we still couldn't free spin it by hand. But sure with front wheel resistance it will free spin.???

Here is some photo's

Very simple to do so far.

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Edited by MJTru
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The old disk were good but just a bit worn. I measured it before disassembling it and it was over .020 inch. Sorry for that. So definitely at .008 its within factory standard.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Damn no one is intrested in this post it seems like. :(

Well i just bought the ETS PRO from fullrace. Cost 660 usd dilivered.

I found some info saying the samething someone said here. I can put it in manual mode and full 4wd lock and let it rip. Then at high speed go 2wd.

Im just trying to think of a way i can get it to go into 2wd automatically???

Brain buster.

Any ideas. ???

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

Just off the top of my head, you would probably need to run a circuit from your wheel speed sensor circuit to your pump/ controller. Or some setup from the G sensor signal or both. But aren't you using a manual override anyway?

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