Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Unusual Power Delivery, Slight Hesitation

RB335

By RB335,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

RB335 Rising Star

RB335

Posted
Posted

Hi.

On my R33 GTR which has done 100,000km, I have noticed it has a very unusual power delivery mostly when cold, it seems as if the power curve flatlines for a bit, and then surges suddenly, I can feel/hear very feint misfiring, but most of the times it seems like somethings holding back, you can notice it when you hold the throttle at say 40% in 1st or 2nd gear. It get's better as car warms up.

Now I'm thinking first thing most people would say is Coilpacks, am not sure how they play up on these cars but I'm thinking those would cause severe misfiring under high load all the time, which I don't get, could it still be coilpacks?

2nd Issue I have heard could be AFM's, I have opened them up before to add solder the the joints which is a common problem. The elements on the AFM's appear clear with no buildup.

Igniter is recently changed off a car that had no problems.

I had it in at a GTR Specialist and they said some of the injectors may be dirty which is causing a bit of a rough idle and coming onto power badly.

I would appreciate any feedback or experiences you guys have had with an issue like this.

Cheers.

  • Like 1
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted (edited)

If it only does it while the engine is cold, then I wouldn't worry about. You really shouldn't be using "power" on a cold engine.

Edited by blind_elk
Gus Baby Rookie

Gus Baby

Posted
Posted

Have seen afm's that look practically new and be no good...not saying this is ur problem tho as it probably wouldn't change hot r cold...could be fuel delivery alrite...what work have u got done recent or how long I this happening?

  • 4 weeks later...
RB335 Rising Star

RB335

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

It happens 80% of the time when cold. I have not had any work done on the car recently.

It definitely doesn't feel right.

On rare occasion when cold the revs would play up a little bit, slight misfire, but most of the time it's unusual jerky power delivery.

Edited by RB335
  • 3 weeks later...
GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
Posted (edited)

[img4]http://i.imgur.com/reqcct we x[/img]

2

My 32 gtr daily has just had the exact same symptoms, did you find a cause?

When cold the power is hesitant. Not on boost just on gentle power then it sudenly releases and its smooth again.

I now and suddenly get it occasionally when crusing allong, it feels like it starves for fuel or air sligtly then releases. No issue at all on boost or wot.

Im running stock ecu, stock engine rb26 and although i have had no issues prior and no change and i daily the thing so i know, something has deteriorated. What should i check first?

Plugs or coilpacks, even injectors pumos and so on would have to give me issues on wot i would have thought?

Im guessing something more electronic like cas or afms, can i trouble shoot these somehow when its such an intermittant and specific issue?

Edited by GH05T
  • 1 month later...
RB335 Rising Star

RB335

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I could not find the issue.

I notice that also when the car is fully warm on a midly hot day, it can be slug when you put your foot down in 1st gear, but if you let the revs sort of build then punch it, it goes better. I have no idea if knock sensors are detecting pinging or going off randomly and pulling the timing or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...