Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 06 PM35 stagea is stuck in 4th gear, the mechanic tells me that I'll need a new valve body; however there's no Nissan dealers thay can programme the new valve body to my car. The importer replaced some solenoids in the gearbox when it was imported, they've stuffed up again that's the reason we think it's the valve body. Can't get another box because like before, it needs to be programmed to the car. Is there anyone in Aus that's replaced a PM35 VQ35 auto box.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459386-valve-body-programming/
Share on other sites

so its stuck? not in limp mode? no A/T lights up on the dash?

you've replaced the solenoids before and it sorted the issue (temporarily)?

I presume it's in limp mode, when you first turn the car on it drives fine for about 30 seconds then it jolts and is stuck in 4th. The A/T light also lights up on the dash and yes, replacing the solenoids temporarily fixed the issue.

That would be in limp mode, there is no point changing anything until you know the code. I assume it's nearly impossible to find a Consult3 unit up there?

I suspect the wiring is hooked up in the shift mechanism or something is shorting out. Similar faults happen when the trans fluid is too hot, so it could be the temp sensor or wiring. Might pay to drop the sump and check the imprters didn't fluck something up.

That would be in limp mode, there is no point changing anything until you know the code. I assume it's nearly impossible to find a Consult3 unit up there?

I suspect the wiring is hooked up in the shift mechanism or something is shorting out. Similar faults happen when the trans fluid is too hot, so it could be the temp sensor or wiring. Might pay to drop the sump and check the imprters didn't fluck something up.

The car had this problem when it first came into Australia in June. I took it to get diagnosed and fault codes came up solenoids, it's at a transmission specialist at the moment but they've never seen anything like it before. The work is getting done under insurance so don't mind getting a whole new box if it comes down to it.

Mechanic couldn't do anything so I had a talk to wholesale automatic transmissions. They couldn't help me with my problem but they said they're gonna contact their Japanese associates and see what they can do for me. The problem I'm having is that the mechatronic unit in my box can only be programmed In japan, no Australian nissan dealers or workshop's can do anything.

Aus Nissan dealers have the exact same consult 3+ software, sounds like a load of crap to me. I am sure my mate at Dandenong Nissan could swap it over if it was going to be a problem, that's their job after all.

I have changed over a heap of VQ25det RE5 gearboxes without a drama, I didn't expect you would have issues with the RE5 in the series two, worst case you swap the ecu's in the sump? Mechanically the rest is exactly the same.

Did they drop the pan at all, or was it just too hard? Just have to measure a few resistance measurements, the consult 3 shouldn't be required.

I contacted the nissan dealer here in Darwin, they also said they weren't able to program anything. If you can get in contact with your nissan mate and if it's possible to change the valve body without programming anything that would be great.

I honestly can't tell you what the mechanic has done, im getting seriously pissed off because of the lack of information I'm getting from him.

It takes 5 minutes for a Nissan mech to reprogram, from what i am told. They just chose to put it in the too hard basket I think.

No way a mechanic would disassemble the auto, they would pay a trans specialist to do that usually. Likely you can swap the complete valve body, but if it is indeed keyed to the vin you should be able to swap the ecus over easy enough after removing the valve body again.

Pretty sure the valve bodies are the same as the series 1 M35, with just the ecu grafted on, it's been a while since I did a series 2 shift kit, I don't remember many differences.

I'm gonna go in and see Nissan personally, sick of calling around and getting half assed answers.

By mechanic I mean a transmission specialist, he's the only one in darwin so gotta go see him if I want anything done in thay area. I'm actually not sure what gets programmed? Does the valve body assembly get programed or something else? Still waiting to hear back from a transmission place in Vic, gonna see if they can get the stuff programmed in Japan then sent over to Aus.

What was the name of the trans specialist down here?

Are you sure it needs reprogramming? They would normally read the data off the old ecu and swap it back on to the new one once the valve body was replaced, using the Consult3, via the OBD2 connector.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...