Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/309538-running-r34-gtr-on-2wd-dyno/

Last post.

"Unplug the Pump and bleed the slave on the transfer case. Takes a few minutes and works fine. "

Looks like removing the front shaft is OK though, i had misread it.

Edited by ActionDan

Love the ztune guards.

Would look much better with more sensible exterior bits also those mirrors look dope

yeah about $10k off stock can get to 300.

Id still consider 10k more on top to get it to where you want it, it seems.

His latest comment to some more of my questions.

"Tyres are pretty much new there only acchiels. Ive replaced all rotors and pads still like new when I did the rear rotors I also did the rear wheel bearings there was a little play in the left. And I had the boot split on the front driver side so I replaced both sides full cv drive shaft. A little extreme but I like the car perfect. Yeah I had the rims professionally painted. There's no stickers on them but theres raised embossed volk etc the cats and front pipes are done as well. And Ive never done a compression test. Your welcome to though"

Car is completely stock, has Nismo exhaust and front pipes but standard dumps :(

- Standard Dump Pipes can handle over 300+ rwkw's

So that's what... another 10k in mods to get it to 300+rwkw?

- No, if the engine is still tight and has a good compression, -7's or -9's / Cam Gears / 3" Exhaust / Nistune (R32 / R33) or PFC and Tune = 300 rwkw's.

Maybe not that bad given I can do the labour myself - not the tuning.

EDIT: Looks like prices have changed a bit and it's not that expensive to get 300-330 on 98.

-7 or -5s

- Go -7's, if you want 330 rwkw, you'd go -9's.

Injectors, Fuel pump, Cam gears

- Stock Injectors and Fuel Pump can handle 300+ rwkw's and get Racepace to modify you stock Cam Gears to be adjustable.

Cams not necessary but would help (and sound lovely) - No need but if you got money to spend, go for it...

PFC and tune - Yes

Full exhaust, some conjecture on 3 or 4"

- 3" for 300 rwkw's

- 3.5" for 350 rwkw's

- 4" for 400 rwkw's

AFMs - Stock AFM's are fine for 300 rwkw's

Standard intercooler and airbox fine. - Yes

Just so you know :)

  • Like 3

Re exhaust is that 3.5" all the way? I think ideally I'd like to go -9s and aim for more like 320-330ish with cams for response.

I was planning to get some 600-700cc injectors and a drop in fuel pump just for safety. I actually thought Z32s were a must at that level?

Re the car, discussion with the owner continues and is looking semi promising.

Waiting to hear back from the Jap history check, baring that having some nightmare info I will aim to get up there next Monday to inspect. My partner is away all this weekend coming (so I'll have the kidlet) so that's out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
×
×
  • Create New...