Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just bought some ENKEI RPF1 18x9.5 +38 all around to find they don't fit on the front but fit perfect on the back.

The back of the wheel is scraping against the front brake calipers stopping the wheel from rotating.

I tried 8mm spacers, still wasn't enough. Tried 20mm bolt on spacers and that poked WAY too much it looked ridiculous. No idea what to do at this point. I really don't want to sell them as it will be such a hassle to get new ones etc.

any suggestions?

post-141345-0-52250200-1443078991_thumb.jpg

post-141345-0-65548600-1443079026_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459934-help-enkei-rpf1-on-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites

But but but but.....I'm trying to work out how they can be rubbing the back of the spokes on the caliper faces. This is not a reasonable situation.

Fact 1. RPF1s (17x8 +35 or 38 or whatever it is) fit on my R32 against R33 calipers (not that it should matter much, but R33 calipers will obviously sit radially a little further away from the axis than R32 ones would).

Fact 2. I've never sen other RPF1s not fit a Skyline under similar circumstances.

Fact 3. RPF1s should all have about the same thickness of material in the hub section. This is the material thickness that determines whether the wheel will clear the caliper face.

Observation 1. The wheel in the OP's photo appears to have a LOT thinner hub section than any other RPF1 I have ever seen. I would guess that some retard has machined a f**ktonne of material off the hub section.

If all the above is true, run away. Do not sell them (because that would be wrong). Do not try to use them with spacers, because that would be stupid if they have been molested.

Yeah put them up last night sold them this morning for $1800 which is roughly what i paid.. Time to look for a new set of the same wheels.. :(

So im guessing i need a +15 to +25 offset and that should fit perfect?

What forum section should i post a WTB thread in for these?

They would have gone on with a bit of work. $1700 -$1800 is the going rate new here in aus. I bought mine in from the us for under $1500 delivered, but the dollar was better. And mine are the widest RPF1's available.

I have 18x9.5+15 WITH a 25mm spacer up front, and 18x10.5 +15 rear, now has a 35mm rear spacer. with 25mm front and 35mm rear fenders. But ran it as a street car like that for a couple of years.

030.jpg

031.jpg

They won't fit on a gtst.

When you put a 20mm spacer on that would have made the wheels a +18. Now imagine another 3mm out from there.

You need 8" upfront.

they WILL fit on a GTST. You just need to mod the guards. I ran rolled flared OEM Metal for a while, and then when to origin +25mm FRP Fenders. Your wheel alignment also plays a major part in it. Also tyre sizing.

10744884_10203677194142648_1617544223_n.

But but but but.....I'm trying to work out how they can be rubbing the back of the spokes on the caliper faces. This is not a reasonable situation.

Fact 1. RPF1s (17x8 +35 or 38 or whatever it is) fit on my R32 against R33 calipers (not that it should matter much, but R33 calipers will obviously sit radially a little further away from the axis than R32 ones would).

Fact 2. I've never sen other RPF1s not fit a Skyline under similar circumstances.

Fact 3. RPF1s should all have about the same thickness of material in the hub section. This is the material thickness that determines whether the wheel will clear the caliper face.

Observation 1. The wheel in the OP's photo appears to have a LOT thinner hub section than any other RPF1 I have ever seen. I would guess that some retard has machined a f**ktonne of material off the hub section.

If all the above is true, run away. Do not sell them (because that would be wrong). Do not try to use them with spacers, because that would be stupid if they have been molested.

Fact 3 is incorrect. The spokes taper differently as they get wider. Many brands of wheels do this. Commonly referred to as a "FACE" Offset is a part of the equation, but not all of it. My 9.5's and 10.5's taper differently.

Had to sell them had no other options, sorry only saw all these comments now. Dont have any other pics but yeah was a very strange situation.

Like i said specs were 18x9.5 +38 all around

I Previously ran Enkei ABC Exclusive wheels in 18x9.5 +35 and 18x10.5 +35.

I actually still have them. They run a more concave face, therefore allowing more calliper clearance.

2012-10-24182728.jpg

There are plenty of people running wider and lower offset wheels than what you're suggesting.

You really need to consider all of the following, not just a width and offset and thats it.

- Width

- Offset

- Wheel Face tyre - some offer more or less room on the face for calliper clearance. Enkeis are generally pretty good with clearance,

- Tyre Size

- Alignment

- Ride Height

- Spring Rates

TBH, you could have just gone with a 10mm longer wheel stud and a 10mm slip on, or a 15mm bolt on, or a 20 and more camber, for every degree of negative camber you run, the too of the wheel moves in 5mm (Generally)

Edited by R31 drift pig
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was 99% sure the standard one is long enough to get there, you might just have to change the throttle orientation. If not, I remember someone having used an r31 cable instead, but that is probably harder to find than r33 by now...
    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...