Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm back to bother ya'll again. hehe. I'll get right to it, Please follow my story below:

I had this tapping/knocking noise on rb26 that came on 1 minute after i cold start it but it would go away after 20 minutes initially..

I took a stethoscope and poked around the whole top of the engine. From the cam covers, all i could hear was the injector ticking but when i put it on the cam angle sensor or the timing cover ( i have a clear plastic one). It was clearly audible as in it hurt my ears listening to that knock.

So I took out the CAS and everything and

The shaft on the CAS was greasy with no rubbing marks but the O ring was still good. I installed another good used CAS but the knock was still there.

Then I found out that the previous retarded owner had not put the gasket and spacer grommets on the clear timing cover when he installed it.

eBut he included the original cover when I bought the car so I checked it out and as I suspected, the old timing cover still had the gasket and the washers stuck on it. So I went ahead and installed it. And this happened..

There is a knock and ofcourse the whining noise.. I have no idea what it is. How do I diagnose what it is? Would it be safe to diagnose with the engine running like that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459990-rb26-whineknock/
Share on other sites

Maybe the timing belt was put on too tight or too loose or on an angle and something is slapping against something that shouldn't there, or the tensioner is going bad,

I would seriously get the timing belt redone including bearings because if its snaps you will almost certainly break the engine. I hope its not the gates racing blue belt either as Ive heard they are POS.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459990-rb26-whineknock/#findComment-7610499
Share on other sites

Took the timing belt cover off. There were no rubbing marks on the timing cover.

Intake cam gear was grinding with the vack cover and the exhaust cam gear slightly grinding as well.

Timing belt a little tight. I'm not sure how tight its supposed to be. Found some rubbing marks on the inside teeth of the timing belt for 1 inch.

Is the ok for the timing belt to move back and forth? Any comments on the grinding? What can be told about those rubbing mark on the teeth?

http://s27.postimg.org/k7t1lauwz/20150928_154209.jpg

Video showing the timing belt play and cam gear grinding :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GclZnyZXrFI

Edited by gotenek
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459990-rb26-whineknock/#findComment-7610630
Share on other sites

That is a serious sound.........I am not there [so its kinda hard to tell where its really coming from], but I would be super worried and looking hard at the motor and not just the timing belt. You have major issues IMO.

But wind your motor over and check the timing marks all line up for a start.

One last thing, where did the drop of coolant come from........its on the wrong side for the water pump and hoses??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459990-rb26-whineknock/#findComment-7610700
Share on other sites

I am very worried as well which is why I try to research as much as possible before I do any further diagnosis or find out how to do this diagnosis.

I pulled the coolant line in front of the timing cover and it dripped a bit. Nothing to worry about lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459990-rb26-whineknock/#findComment-7610703
Share on other sites

Man just get a timing belt kit, belt water pump and bearings. Preferably get a genuine kit. Re do the whole thing. You don't want to risk the timing belt or tensioner snapping on you.

Nothing wrong with Gates timing belts, providing they are genuine. Usually incorrect installation leads to problems for any belt.

I have no personal experiences with them, but I have heard WAY to many bad stories about the V racing gates belts to ever use one. Stories such as things being perfect at first, then the car developing timing issues or the belt rubbing off after only 20-30,000ks after installation, whereas the genuine nissan belt would go at least 100,000k with no problems. Not just from one source but the same story repeated over and over again.

Edited by sonicz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459990-rb26-whineknock/#findComment-7610730
Share on other sites

I've been using gates belts for years on road and my race car with no issues.

but anyway, that noise is horrible but almost certainly something rotating at the front. If I understood right you are saying the cam gear (intake in particular) is rubbing on the backing plate, that definitely should not happen. Also as Ben said that belt is dangerously loose and must be fixed ASAP, it is at major risk of skipping one or more teeth which can ultimately stuff your valves.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459990-rb26-whineknock/#findComment-7611017
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. After many confirmations, online and IRL, i know for certain that the timing belt is super loose. I will be pulling the engine in a week to change the oil pump, timing belt, tensioner, idler, spring, intake and exhaust gaskets, aac gasket.

Will definitely update on how it goes as everything is unfolded in the engine.

Thanks again everyone!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459990-rb26-whineknock/#findComment-7611437
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...