Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi ladies and gents.

I recently had my built 25/30 tuned, now anything over 20 psi my intercooler just ran out of efficiency and intake air temps raised dramatically. Currently I have a cheap ebay cooler, what brand intercooler have people had success with? Having a look on forums intercoolers seem to be a non existing topic. Any advice would be great, Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460139-intercooler-options/
Share on other sites

Whats your price range? If your willing to go up to the 800-1000 mark you can get a good pwr core or if thats out of your price range there is a cheap chinese brand takashi which is one of the better cheap coolers and work well for there price <$200.

You could put a massive intercooler on, but it won't help cool superheated air. Sounds to me like your turbo is too small, what are you running? Where is your temp gauge, and do you have one pre and post cooler?

Yeah I reckon the pwr would be a bit out of my price range being in tassie it doesn't exactly get that hot ha.

It already has a 600×300 cooler so I wouldn't think bigger or thicker would help much. Turbo is relatively small being a kinugawa t67 with a t04z compressor housing and 10cm rear turbine. Engine temp seems to be fine and sits around the 80° mark under load. I only have one temp sensor on the cold side of cooler piping.

I had a cooling pro front mount kit previously on my car and it pretty much dropped out after 265kw at 18 psi... in my experience not worth looking at.. your better off spending a bit more money to get some quailty gear..im running a entry level plazmaman and its been outstanding so far. Best of luck

I had a cooler pro on my R34 and I managed 320rwkw but my tuner said that was its limit, temps were starting to creep up above that so probably not worth looking at for you. If you want to do some reading jump on the Hypergear thread and search for all the results that Stao posted when he went through a heap of intercoolers for testing.

I think from memory he found that the PWR was best and also one of the standard GTR coolers was really good but I can't remember what model it was from. It'll be on there somewhere. I'd really suggest having a read of that

Ok cheers for the input guys, cooling pro seems to be a no go. I have heard good results about the base model plazmaman so that sounds the go. Il have a quick geez through the hypergear thread. I was at 345kw at which the cooler dropped it's efficiency.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...