Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i got my r32 gtst about a year and half ago so a lot has been done to it so its quiet a large 1st post going through what it was like and what it is now witch is a forged rb25. when i got it was a stranded rb20det with a turbo back it had all the rust cut out and a gtr bumper modified to suit the gtst and had a full respray which was perfect at the time a untouched engine and a good body. it was fine for about 6 months until i went to the wakefield with mates and my turbo decided to blow. so here are some photos of when i got it and when my turbo blow up.

post-134117-0-40511900-1445886054_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-64598000-1445886073_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-27876900-1445886100_thumb.jpg

r32 bromance

post-134117-0-09834800-1445886182_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-78520500-1445886202_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-36439500-1445886224_thumb.jpg

greedy intercooler did a top job stoping it all from going into the engine

post-134117-0-69332200-1445886299_thumb.jpg

the exit hole from the explosion i was at around 7000 rpm when it went pop

so after i blew my turbo up i was planing on just replacing the turbo then i meet grub from imposible fabrication who ended up being a top fabricator and also a a fabricator who i could trust and didn't rip off and was full of great advice. so i ended up getting a high mount manifold made a new dump and modified intercooler piping all to suit the td0625g

post-134117-0-87892000-1445886674_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-27626400-1445886717_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-52543500-1445886740_thumb.jpg

slightly shorter piping that also didn't go over the hot side of the engine and in my eyes i thought looked a lot beta

post-134117-0-26839800-1445886822_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-50502600-1445886840_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-51891500-1445886867_thumb.jpg

so i had that set up for a while then the motor decided to blow in a tunnel when it was hitting gate hard :(:laugh2:

so the rb20 came out and i was going to drop in a rb25 and ended up forging the rb25 but while that was getting done i got board and made a vented bonnet,gtr wing,stereo install. and surge tank.

post-134117-0-34915800-1445887196_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-11142900-1445887211_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-22942800-1445887250_thumb.jpg

this is a stranded gtst bonnet cut folded and welded to make it like a gtr. im not a fabricator so i made it up as i went it turned out will i think'

post-134117-0-38631700-1445887370_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-93570300-1445887426_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-96499200-1445887386_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-66975800-1445887461_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-25648300-1445887490_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-81767700-1445887537_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-34139900-1445887565_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-93596700-1445887593_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-37086400-1445887654_thumb.jpg

this is the boot install i made it sounds nice and i can still fit the shopping

post-134117-0-97267200-1445887803_thumb.jpg

as a head unit i used a samsung tab 3 for some thing diffrent

post-134117-0-83892900-1445887967_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-94870800-1445887907_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-59443200-1445887935_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-98937000-1445888001_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-26903100-1445888032_thumb.jpg

im pretty happy with the out come i always believe you should try do it your self or you will never know what you can do

so i got all that done and while i was doing that i made a parts list and went and ordered all the stuff for the engine

os twin plate clutch

balanced and drilled crank

nitto oil pump

ross harmonic balancer

acl race bearings

nitto rods

cp pistons

arp head studs

tomei head gasket

super teck valve springs

tomei pon cams

hks timing gear

hks timing belt

hks fuel rail

sard fuel reg

turbonetics 7868 ceramic ball bearing

greedy look plenum (will be getting a real one soon)

head drain.

aem ems 2

aem cas disc

aem air temp

aem 3.5 bar map

aem wide band

there are some of the parts its not running yet it will soo the list goes on :wacko2:

post-134117-0-23657700-1445888752_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-78247700-1445888788_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-47185000-1445888808_thumb.jpg

the clutch got drilled and shaved for balancing

post-134117-0-18135200-1445888856_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-78544700-1445888911_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-32457600-1445888941_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-39409500-1445888967_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-58053100-1445889006_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-15934500-1445889033_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-01468300-1445889080_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-06352400-1445889129_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-54622700-1445889154_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-70094100-1445889176_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-35856000-1445889208_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-25549200-1445889238_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-26364900-1445889257_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-48845200-1445889277_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-94091200-1445889650_thumb.jpg

i was lucky to get to see the assembly of my motor

post-134117-0-20333800-1445889317_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-93980000-1445889393_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-65939300-1445889430_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-98646200-1445889449_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-21950600-1445889514_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-43186000-1445889487_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-03387900-1445889544_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-05668200-1445889575_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-13141400-1445889604_thumb.jpg

right not this is what it looks like in there

post-134117-0-55708600-1445889713_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-09720000-1445889816_thumb.jpg

the most important part of any build is beer pizza and mates

post-134117-0-80820300-1445889843_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-10432000-1445890393_thumb.jpg

post-134117-0-34800700-1445890421_thumb.jpg

thats just some of the stuff i have done to my skyline up until now there will be more to come

post-134117-0-57773800-1445888697_thumb.jpg

Edited by eb35aa
  • Like 5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460607-ollys-r32/
Share on other sites

GTR bonnets are alloy as you mentioned which means they are considerably lighter, but that obviously comes at a cost.. And if you don't really care about that then it's fine

With the GTR Bonnet the latch is positioned differently to make space for the front grille but you can work around that

I've seen and compared my GTR bonnet to Olly's Modified GTST bonnet and you honestly can't tell the difference until you try and lift it.. fantastic value if you ask me.. haha

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460607-ollys-r32/#findComment-7626716
Share on other sites

GTR bonnets are alloy as you mentioned which means they are considerably lighter, but that obviously comes at a cost.. And if you don't really care about that then it's fine

With the GTR Bonnet the latch is positioned differently to make space for the front grille but you can work around that

I've seen and compared my GTR bonnet to Olly's Modified GTST bonnet and you honestly can't tell the difference until you try and lift it.. fantastic value if you ask me.. haha

step by step in the fab section may be needed ;) Yer im only looking at it for the looks.

As said about how the latch was modded to fit the grill etc.

Did you have a gtr bonnet sitting there as reference?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460607-ollys-r32/#findComment-7626723
Share on other sites

step by step in the fab section may be needed ;) Yer im only looking at it for the looks.

As said about how the latch was modded to fit the grill etc.

Did you have a gtr bonnet sitting there as reference?

I have a GTR bonnet and GTR bonnet latch on my GTST :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460607-ollys-r32/#findComment-7626733
Share on other sites

Its impressive mate.....

What exactly is the diff between a GTR and GTST bonnet? Just the Lip part? apart from ones steel and ones Al

from what i know its just the lip i left around 35mm on the lip also dont do a straight line from edge to edge or it will look funny i followed the origanal curve of the gtst bonnet lip to give it shape and it looks good and im not running a n1 lip but if you run the n1 lip it will give you a good idear of that the lip shold look like and it also gives a good finish

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460607-ollys-r32/#findComment-7626758
Share on other sites

step by step in the fab section may be needed ;) Yer im only looking at it for the looks.

As said about how the latch was modded to fit the grill etc.

Did you have a gtr bonnet sitting there as reference?

yeah i will see what i can do in the way of a step by step fab thread when i get home. you only need to trim the latch handel because it hangs out of the grill but i will see what i can do i have more photos at home of making the bonnet im just over seas so when i get home i ill make a fab post

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460607-ollys-r32/#findComment-7626816
Share on other sites

yeah i will see what i can do in the way of a step by step fab thread when i get home. you only need to trim the latch handel because it hangs out of the grill but i will see what i can do i have more photos at home of making the bonnet im just over seas so when i get home i ill make a fab post

That would be great mate!

As it looks the part and its nothing i contemplated doing before. but after seeing that dont see why not.

Plus run a N1 lip and any imperfections would be hidden!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460607-ollys-r32/#findComment-7626839
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...