Jump to content
SAU Community

Gt3583r Upgrade Options

Xing Yi

By Xing Yi,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Xing Yi Enthusiast

Xing Yi

Posted
Posted

Looking at upgrading my setup from the old GT3582R.

Yes I have searched all week here and google, but there is a lot of options out there with new technology turbos.

Basicly I want to increase power and sacrifice a little in response, around 1000 rpm is fine.

I'm currently making 400Kw+ and would like 600Kw.

I have a built rb26, mild port, hks step 1 cams 272, bc springs and retainers, 6 boost t3 manifold, gt3582r t3 0.82, 3.5 in exhaust and e85.

My main problem is getting a turbo that will flow that much to fit where the GT3582R is.

Have been looking at Precision, Forced Performance, Garrett, Borg Warner, Ect.

Would like to keep water cooled housing for reliability as car is tracked.

Let me know of any experience with these turbos, also there after sales service.

Please only post first hand experience and no rumours.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460858-gt3583r-upgrade-options/
Share on other sites
scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Unfortunately if some of us posted our first hand experiences this thread would be quickly locked. Turbo's at that power level can go bang out of the box, and rarely is there any warranty when they do.

600 is a lot of kw, are you sure you need that much? If you didn't want to pay a large lag penalty I know the GTX35 will fit in the same spot, and should flow another 100 odd if you lean on it with the right mods...

Xing Yi Enthusiast

Xing Yi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks Scotty.

As you know I'm still not happy with the power and want more.

I want to maximize my setup, retain AC, full interior and standard look.

The r32 gtr is more than capable of handling this power, other than the gearbox.

I have sent enquiry to Forced Performance, as they seem to have great results with the T3 flanged turbos.

There new HTZ Super 99 or the Xona 95-67 look like the go to me.

I had a fast rx-7 before I love top end power and don't mind lag. In fact i love lag gives others a chance.

Also there is a lot of roll racing at QR these days an I love kicking ass, would be great to keep doing this with a t3 manifold :)

hypergear Grand Master

hypergear

Posted
Posted

With your current turbine housing, I have an upgrade option that pushes it to a T04Z 84mm billet configuration working with an custom profiled 75mm turbine. This will be the largest T3x print possible as the bearing housing starts to run out of materials to sit the wheel in. That should set around the 500awkws region.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Mate im in the same shoe. More power. My goals were 800hp to the wheels. I have a gtx3582r wit a 1.06 ar t4 housing and was after 800hp. Its obvious thats not going to happen. So i dropped my goals to 600hp. Which i think will be pushing this turbo to the max. Im just hoping for a good power curve. Well im happy to see that your on track and looking foward to seeing what becomes of your setup your planning on going with.

Xing Yi Enthusiast

Xing Yi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the input.

Hypergear you have good reputation, and a mate is running one of your turbos. He is very happy with your turbo!

Give you a call this week when I have time, as I think might be safer to run something locally built.

But hard decision when Persisions and FP seem to be making big numbers.

But then again most of them are on US Dynos!

Will keep you guys posted with results.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Seems to be for diesel trucks, not sure if it's designed for petrol heat. Try ringing Magnaflow and asking if it's suitable, but I doubt the Australian distributor will have them.

As Hadouken said, the 5 inch ones should be fine, I have seen 200 cell 5 inch cats flowing 450 odd kw. 6 inch might be a little hard to tuck up, unless you have raised your car or don't go over speed humps.

Unfortunately the cat will be the least of your legality issues with a power figure that high. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...