Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just curious, why do the group A R32 Gtr such as the Calsonic and Gibson motorsports have the hard pipes then? I thought the hard pipes gave less flex compared to stock rubber and had better merger Y pipe before going into intercooler?

Do the twin turbo pipe mod for $100. Put the other $1800 elsewhere... Like a front diff.

If it's good enough for 470 kW on -5's it's good enough for you.

The value for money here is NOT worth it, especially early on.

  • Like 1

Do the twin turbo pipe mod for $100. Put the other $1800 elsewhere... Like a front diff.

If it's good enough for 470 kW on -5's it's good enough for you.

The value for money here is NOT worth it, especially early on.

Waiting for you to sell me your modded twin turbo pipe LOL.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just curious, why do the group A R32 Gtr such as the Calsonic and Gibson motorsports have the hard pipes then? I thought the hard pipes gave less flex compared to stock rubber and had better merger Y pipe before going into intercooler?

Race cars are ALWAYS bad examples of what to do on a street car when driveability comes into question

  • 3 months later...

OK, so recently installed the Nismo inlet pipes on my car and thought I'll post some thoughts. First of all, it's very shiny, does give the engine bay more bling. It sounds slightly louder with air rushing in, could also be the air box without the snorkel as my attempt to melt the stock snorkel to fit back failed miserably.

Now I've only given it a bit of drive so these are only initial bum of the pants fell. Couldn't tell much difference under 4000 rpm, but from 4.5-5k and higher it does seem to go a bit harder, maybe a tiny increase in power but not a massive difference. Checked the ebc and boost seems to go a bit higher. My ebc is set to 19psi and can overboost some time to 20-21psi. After the Nismo pipes the peak shows 22.3psi, so I think boost has gone up maybe 1psi after install. Didn't notice any turbo shuffle on my -5s and my car is mildly tuned to around 310-320rkw.

Now before people flame me, like I said these are only initial thoughts, I will be going to dyno the car soon so hopefully will be able to see if there are any actual differences at all ( will be on same dyno ). Is it better than the modifed twin turbo pipe? I don't know, could've net the same gain if any, it certainly looks better thank stock pipe.

So in conclusion no real negatives (on my setup anyway) besides a burning hole in my wallet. If anyone is interested I might do a write-up with photos.

Would love to see a back to back...

Probably extra 5kW gain, works out about 1kW = $400 lol

Yeah back to back be good, make sure the ambient temp is roughly the same both days and tyres are inflated properly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...