Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everybody, this just happened to me today. So haven't visited my tuner yet. But hope maybe someone here knows whats wrong.

Was driving, and hit the gas hard on high boost. Around 6500rpm it felt like i hit a wall and both waste gates closed. Limped back home, car wasn't making any boost at all and wouldn't rev past 4000rpm.

- Oil pressure is normal

- Engine temp also normal

- No crazy sounds or smoke

- No oil leakage

Car spec: Full tune GTR R33

- N1 Block

- Greddy T517z turbo's

- Hks F-Con 3.24

- Greddy Ebc

- High boost 1.4 bar, 600HP

- list goes on for few pages more...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461458-r33-gtr-boost-problem-help/
Share on other sites

At a guess. Boost leak. Probably partially blown a cooler pipe off. You should probably inspect all piping and check all clamps as a start.

What he said.

You running stock piping?

How old are the turbos? K's etc... only asking as i had the same problem when the rear one on my 32 let go, worst case senario though.

I would start with cooler and vac hoses aswell, then move onto manifold and turbo gaskets...

Turbo's are less than 3000km's old. And its not really a leak because there is totally no boost being made, so some hose must have gone off completely.

If a cooler hose partially popped off that is exactly what would happen. All boost is leaking out before it gets to manifold. 2nd scenario for no boost would be gates stuck open but that isn't going to stop it from revving over 4k and eventually it will build boost. 3rd scenario busted turbos.

Check the piping if u can't see anything obvious take it to an expert to diagnose.

  • Like 1

So this all happened last night so went out today in the sun. My intercooler piping connecting to the intake manifold has completely gone off! Sadly can't put it back my self by force, so will have to go to my tuner. Point is how safe is it do drive like this, or should i tow it. Will be expensive but with a car worth €40.000 why not.

Lol i do, bot the piping must have moved. Can't cat it back to place, without getting the car on a lift and getting beneath! Believe me if i could get the pipe back by my delf i would do it!

You probably shouldn't own a GTR then lol:)

Don't have the tools you described, and sadly in Amsterdam our side roads are not straight. We don't have asfalt roads, the road is made out of small blocks. So jack stands would be very un safe. So a garage is needed.

You own a GTR and don't have a garage to put it in?

Thank the FSM I live in a place where we have plenty of room.

But just for clarity.....my driveway and parking area in front of my house and under my carport is paved with pattern pave concrete which is stamped with a cobblestone patter which is just as uneven as the cobblestones on your street. I still use chassis stands on that surface. I just use a piece of compressed fibre-cement sheet under the jackstand as a bigger spreader plate.

I have seen people working on cars in worse conditions than your city backstreet in places like Belarus, the sphincter of the universe, Israel, etc etc all the time. People make do with what they have. I would not own an old car like these without the tools necessary to do the bare minimum.

The sphincter of the universe is where exactly?

Imagine a bird that Americans eat at Thanksgiving and that we eat at Christmas. Now imagine a country of the same name that borders Greece, Bulgaria, Syria, Iraq, Iran and Armenia. That country and that bird, when typed into this forum, gets auto translated into "the sphincter of the universe". Ordinarily I think that's not quite quite fair, as there are other places in the list of borderng countries that are certainly a lot more sphincterish.....but anyway, at the moment I think it's fair enough and I wouldn't be too happy being in the southern part of that country like I was this time last year!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...