Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Update managed to pull injectors and rail turned car over with injectors plugged in and facing in the air all appear to be spraying equally :angry: any ideas throw them my way please :action-smiley-069:

Ideally at this point you would send the injectors away for cleaning and testing but otherwise you could at least swap out no 6 with another injector and see if the problem moves or stays at no 6

  • Like 1

Ideally at this point you would send the injectors away for cleaning and testing but otherwise you could at least swap out no 6 with another injector and see if the problem moves or stays at no 6

good call i will try that first as for cleaning if i can move the issue with swapping injectors i will upgrade the oem ones :) thanks i will report back tonight

not yet pal although i think i will tackle the more likely candidates i think 6 runs intermittently due to number 6 manifold instantly evaporating water on a cold iso start unless the intake cam has gone and there is enough vacuums to partially draw through some of the mixture on 6 just seams unlikely and the valve train is almost silent at low idle just hear the injectors i will get the new spacers on tomorrow and test things out see if it moves swapped 6 and 1 injector to see if the problem moves :)

All assembled and the issue stays at 6 also another thing coming back from the test drive and this has happened before video attached best explains the issue please note the backfire and also the soot

plus the engine dose run smoother than this regardless of 6 being out of action

http://youtu.be/ilUMXeQUqMQ

It would be unlikely that the ecu is to blame but would be good to eliminate it if you had another known good one to swap out.

Actually would be worth checking the pins - pull the ecu plug out and have a good look at the plug and socket.

It would be unlikely that the ecu is to blame but would be good to eliminate it if you had another known good one to swap out.

Actually would be worth checking the pins - pull the ecu plug out and have a good look at the plug and socket.

i will have a look tonight pal :) my friend with a top of the range diagnostics computer will be trying to get codes for me for both this issue and the abs issue

just to confirm again 6 is defornetly down after idling for about 5 mins i could grab No.6 manifold runner

now this is just a thought but if say 6 intake cam was snapped could the fuel from 6 injector pool and run into 5 causing the sooting and popping or is that a bit far fetched ?

as for ecu i should have mentioned that i had attempted to install a ecu master det 3 piggy back after playing with the settings for a bit trying to get it to adjust fuel settings it ran fine then boom i shut it off and it wouldn't start again so i removed the set 3 from the loom at the ecu plug end and still no fire up so i pulled all plugs and dried them out and cylinder by cylinder it splutters back into life (please note that there has always been a misfire and idle issues ).

Just dive in man and get those cam covers off and see what's going on. Make sure everything looks normal and put a ratchet on the balancer bolt and turn the motor clockwise by hand and check everything turns as it should.

If there is nothing obviously wrong it should only take an hour and a bit all up including putting it all back together.

Just dive in man and get those cam covers off and see what's going on. Make sure everything looks normal and put a ratchet on the balancer bolt and turn the motor clockwise by hand and check everything turns as it should.

If there is nothing obviously wrong it should only take an hour and a bit all up including putting it all back together.

will do tomorrow afternoon i will start

also on a side note some f**kwit appears to have cut the consult diagnostic port of ? well its not there anymore :( after my mate got his computer out as well ! is there a way of getting a pinout for making my own ? or should i just install a fresh unmollested loom remove all the boges ?

  • 2 weeks later...

still not given up been researching and found that timing out a tad and possible poor fuel flow caused by pump or fuel pump 12v feed apparently voltage drops as idle so common cure is constant 12v feed through relay also I'm changing timing belt and ancillary belts while I'm at it also converting from visco fan to 12v

Edited by centoproject

still not given up been researching and found that timing out a tad and possible poor fuel flow caused by pump or fuel pump 12v feed apparently voltage drops as idle so common cure is constant 12v feed through relay also I'm changing timing belt and ancillary belts while I'm at it also converting from visco fan to 12v

Fan conversion a retrograde step in most cases.

right i will stick with it then on other updates found a boost leak on all injectors upon removal of the rail i had noticed that the vac line for the fpr smelt like fuel could this be my problem all along poor or intermittent fuel flow/pressure waiting for serpentine belts then i will re assemble along with the disco fan :yes:

having changed and timed the engine serviced all of the belts ect 6 is still dead sprayed water on manifold from spay bottle and 6 runner hardly evaporated so timing is out of the question starting to think its somewhere in that loom still getting spark ect fuel volume is identical to other 5. so frustrating..... is this the most problematic stagea ever ?? determined to get it sorted ! may go full aftermarket ecu and new engine loom.. may look into spark plugs next go more basic...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...