Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

26 cams are the only thing you may consider swapping. Even then I personally wouldn't do it.

Nothing else from a standard 26 would give any performance benefit really as gtsboy said. Maybe 26 cam covers is you are having blowby issues.

Edited by iruvyouskyrine
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462091-stock-part-swap/#findComment-7663111
Share on other sites

or to put it another way, the RB20 has limitations so enjoy it for what it is. When finished swap out/trade up to an RB25/26 which also have limitations but you will find it much harder and heaps more fun to explore them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462091-stock-part-swap/#findComment-7663263
Share on other sites

As above. I found my mates RB20 powered R32 to be pretty fun because of the way it delivered the power. It had a different turbo, I don't think he ever found out what it was or I don't remember what it was, but wasn't much more powerful then stock.

Build a 25 or 26 etc on the side with everything you want on it, drive the RB20 in the meantime. Pull it off the road, swap engine, and away you go again. Less time off the road, and less time mucking around with the RB20 by trying to throw RB26 parts on it lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462091-stock-part-swap/#findComment-7663345
Share on other sites

Like can I take stock rb26 exhaust manifolds and make my rb20 twin turbo?

If you feel like wasting money modifying it to fit then yes as the bolt orientation is different at Cyl 3 and 4 or so

And good luck spooling up 2x dinosaur turbos with a RB20 :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462091-stock-part-swap/#findComment-7663356
Share on other sites

Lol I wouldn't want to make it twin turbo. I really just don't know much aboot the RB motors.

If I can get a Rb25 or 26 I might just do a swap but in the mean time I do plan on making some changes. My GTS-T is bone stock at the moment.

Spend ALL your money on suspension and brakes.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462091-stock-part-swap/#findComment-7663441
Share on other sites

^ Agreed.

First up give the car a full service. So change ALL oils/fluids from motor to diff.

Then do suspension/brakes/tyres and get a basic tune at some point, big more boost/power and have fun.

Then save up and do a RB25 motor/gearbox swap later on when funding allows (7k conversion minimum as you would change the turbo at the same time)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462091-stock-part-swap/#findComment-7663443
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...