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R34 GTT 2 DOOR Parts




AJ Performance Side Skirts in OEM white (non pearl) - $130



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Unknown Brand Front Bar in OEM white (non pearl) - $130



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Boot with no spoiler in OEM white (non pearl) - $200



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Door cards with plastics + switches + gear stick sorround with leather boot. Plastics have been sprayed satin black - $170



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OTHER PARTS:



Autotechnica Gauges Oil Pressure, Voltage, Boost 52mm + boost sensor - $70 for the lot


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Defi 60mm (non genuine DEFI but accurate) gauges with sandwich plate and sensors + wiring (oil pressure, oil temp, water temp) - $200


Lights up red or white


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Genuine Omori Mechanical Oil Temperature Gauge, could do with a clean and paint, works good for an old item - $100


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Exedy Clutch Kit - Told it's for 34GTT but I'm not sure, came with the car. Serial numbers in photos - $150



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5 Fine grade claybars, I doubt I'll use the 10 that I got in my lifetime... $30 for all 5


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Located in Macquarie Park, Rhodes & Silverwater (depending on time/day), or can post items at buyers expense.




If you have any R34 GTT related parts, I'm more than happy to swap (including cash adjustments either way). Would be interested in anything engine/cosmetic/suspension etc related.


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Edited by cabramatta
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    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
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    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
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