Jump to content
SAU Community

Got My 2010 V36 Dyno-tuned At Croydon Racing Developments

DJ Volatile
 Share

Recommended Posts

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

OK did sound like a cool story. While we are judging some of you need a hug.

Well, to be fair, you need to back up what you claim, otherwise, it's just another cool story. You have to appreciate that many a joker will jump on a forum, make a lot of claims about a particular business pretending to be a happy customer when in reality, they're a part of the said business. Hence if you take a look at my thread, I posted the graph along with my post, just to keep it all legitimate.

Getting back to your tune, looks like you got 2kW more than I. Must be those funky little black things from AsM. :P I was curious about how they sound but if it sounds raspy, I might just stick to my Megan Racing muffler and leave it alone.

How much did CRD charge you for the dyno tune?

  • Like 1
The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

Personally, I didn't notice any throttle lag in my 2009 and no change after the tune either.

As for the gear shifts being snappier, I'm curious about this because mine feel the same but I usually shift down a couple gears in preparation for my squirt anyway - always on the ready. :P

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
Posted

I had the Auto /Tipronic and I never bothered using the Tipronic as the Auto change was sharp, put your foot down and would get you going real fast, shocked a lot of young blokes with the response of this car, the twin Turbos made it very sneaky :woot:

GFXman Experienced

GFXman

Posted
Posted

I had the Auto /Tipronic and I never bothered using the Tipronic as the Auto change was sharp, put your foot down and would get you going real fast, shocked a lot of young blokes with the response of this car, the twin Turbos made it very sneaky :woot:

haha, 250 at the wheels helps... 180 not so much :)

Nismo 3.2ish Grand Master

Nismo 3.2ish

Posted
Posted

haha, 250 at the wheels helps... 180 not so much

But I traded a 300ZX TT, it felt better than the ZX before the TT upgrade and I did not notice lag ?

It was smooth, but like most of the blokes on this Forum, I wanted more and when I got it , I think my dick moved :yes:

GFXman Experienced

GFXman

Posted
Posted

I don't really have lag with mine, but I find the auto can be a bit sluggish.

I'm pretty sure it adapts to your driving style though. If I drive a bit harder than usual first thing, it seems alot more eager to shift and when it does it's quite quick. Drive more sedately or in traffic and it seems to favour smooth shifts.

DJ Volatile Explorer

DJ Volatile

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Just to add to this I am pretty stoked with the fuel economy improvement.

I was averaging 6.4km/l or 512kms per tank.

This is the second tank I had since the tune.

With this tank I did a return trip to Canberra at 588ks. The rest has been normal Sydney traffic and I have been driving it hard with paddle shift.

I reset the trip meter 5km after filling a tank. So its at call it 700ks with 160ks left to go on the fuel meter reading (which is always slightly overstated)

Even though its highway driving and different to metro I'm pretty stoked as normally would need to refuel halfway back and I'm home with a quarter of a tank left.

post-111327-0-53792200-1453623675_thumb.jpg

Edited by DJ Volatile
The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

Sounds about right.

In my 2009, driving Sydney to Melbourne (and not behaving myself, ;) ) I got 10.58km/L on the first half and 9.29km/L on the next leg, according to my fuel logging app I use on my phone (MyFuelLog - check it out, really handy). As I'm a bit of a stickler for BP fuel, on the way back I made the mistake of not stopping past the BP in Albury, thinking there was another one further up north but they didn't have Ultimate 98 (and were closed!!). With the trip meter not being able to calculate the remaining distance beyond the last estimate of 30km, I ended up stopping past the Caltex further up and filled up with 69.01L on 663km, so you're pretty close to the mark.

Driving Sydney to Canberra last month, I got 11.88km/L on the return trip. City driving, I average 7.09km/L, again, driving somewhat enthusiastically.

Now, with all that good news, you still haven't told us how much the dyno tune cost. So, tell us the price!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • Duncan
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Duncan
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Duncan · Posted

      Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...