Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yup. Not to mention some compliance workshops in NSW is owned by that idiot. My car got sent to one of them and they charged me for fluid changes etc and scratched up the car a little.....and they said nope, not them, probably the freight service.......right mate, the freight service changed all my fluids to old stuff when they brought my car from NSW to WA....f**king tools.

...until it sinks. :P

At least the moderators here can relax about libel and defamation so long as we stick to the gist of the article. :)

It's amazing though that a business can be so dodgy that they can flirt with the regulations, not to mention fold the company to avoid paying out customers they've screwed over. There's got to be something that can be said for such practitioners which can be broadcast for all the public to know where not to go shopping for their next vehicle ... ever.

I settled for buying the shitbox BA wagon from Australian Fleet Sales back in 2010 because it was a shitbox and dialling the clock back 100,000km on it wouldn't make any difference to such a battleaxe - not to mention a shitload of haggling.

Yup. Not to mention some compliance workshops in NSW is owned by that idiot. My car got sent to one of them and they charged me for fluid changes etc and scratched up the car a little.....and they said nope, not them, probably the freight service.......right mate, the freight service changed all my fluids to old stuff when they brought my car from NSW to WA....f**king tools.

Thankfully my agent, Prestige Motorsports, had a very professional contact in Brisbane to handle my '09 since they hadn't been complied by many so early in 2012. Yes, they did the fluid changes, filters and brake pads as well but that was all part of the $2000 compliance cost. The only thing that was buggered up was the engine serial number on the paperwork but that was quickly rectified. The car was otherwise very well looked after and the headlight modification was made to be completely reversible.

Luck of the draw, I suppose but it's always good to have some kind of list where everyone contributes their experience with which import agent, compliance workshop or dealer. Forewarned is forearmed, after all. The more things like this are discussed, the better for all concerned.

I have a dealer story too, this one took place shortly before the lovely Christmas of 2015.

I nearly bought an imported car from a car dealer in SA. (I won't name it but some of you can probably easily guess who I'm referring to) We had some sort of weird agreement, it was around Christmas time and they said they could register the car for me and have it to me by Christmas, even though a purchase contract had not been signed. They asked for my financial details over the phone to register the car, which I gave. However the finance company who they had been in contact with decided to close early that day, so I did not receive the car within the timeframe they promised. At this stage, I was just going to pick up the car when they reopened after christmas.

Over christmas, I did some research, and found that this dealer had been caught three times selling cars with wound back odometers. After posting a Facebook status asking friends for advice, I had several people I knew personally telling me to absolutely avoid the dealer, and that one of them had bought a wound back car in the past, went through a huge hassle to get the money back, and then immediately saw the car re-listed with the incorrect mileage, which was then soon re-sold. My friend tracked down the buyer, informed him the odometer had been wound back, and when the person contacted the dealer, the dealer threatened legal action against my friend.

After learning all this information, I decided I did not want to do business with this dealer. No purchase agreement had been signed, but the dealer immediately became hostile, told me I would not be getting my money back, and hung up on me. I have tried getting legal advice, but have been very busy with work, and all the advice so far has been unhelpful as "No contract was signed", so for some reason that means they can just have my money for giving me absolutely nothing in return. The most useful advice I received is to write a letter of demand for the money, and if that fails, take them to the Minor Civil Claims Court. Still haven't written the letter yet... luckily you have 3 years to do it. (Though I won't be waiting that long of course)

The dealership in question currently owes me $760.

Anyway, I now have a fantastic car on it's way from Japan thanks to Iron Chef Imports! So at least I learned my lesson.

When you have nothing in writing, not even a receipt from them detailing the $760 transaction, you don't have much of a leg to stand on for getting that money back.

Anything as major as this should always be done in writing. When I asked for a one year registration for the BA at Australian Fleet Sales, I was given a handshake gesture. I told them no paperwork will be signed and no money will be exchanged until I get the one year registration deal in writing because talk is cheap. There's no shame in being a ballbreaker when it comes to business, so long as it's within reason.

For what? It's a weak bit of evidence. I'm not trying to shut you down here but you have to think like an arsehole lawyer. I'd still fight the good fight for the sake of saying at least I tried but honestly, it's not looking good when whatever you have in writing is not really strong enough to build a solid case. All you can hope for in the battle is that he slips up at some point and you can nail him on it. Good luck but next time, for any transaction, get it all down in writing beforehand. Get a proforma invoice which shows the deposit amount and thereafter, even if you don't get the actual tax invoice, at least you have the proforma to piece a more solid case with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...