Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can the brake pistons be pushed into the caliper somewhat?

Yeah all four pistons on each side go in fine (well, as well as they normally do), otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get the new pads in.

what a nightmare! lol sounds like you're having a few issues, when I changed my pads over i had my disc's machined, did you bleed your brakes?

and when you bed them in never come to a full stop.

Also when i went to change my turbo the other day i only had 3 bolts lol! so yeah track days do loosen them ahah

I was gonna come to Calder spewing i didn't :(

what a nightmare! lol sounds like you're having a few issues, when I changed my pads over i had my disc's machined, did you bleed your brakes?

and when you bed them in never come to a full stop.

...

Nope didn't machine the rotors or bleed the brakes. Pedal feel is fine, perhaps needs a touch more pressure than before, which I attribute to the skewed pad wear.

Bedding in was done correctly, following the QFM instructions: http://qfm.com.au/userfiles/files/BEDDING-IN-PROCEDURE.pdf

...

But yeah track days are tough on the car, in addition the what's already listed earlier:

  1. The oil cooler hose weep is slowly getting worse, so I will have to get the hoses replaced soon: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462362-oil-cooler-too-eager-faulty-thermostat-or-incorrect-temp-sensor-location/?p=7678751
  2. There's an occasional high RPM misfire, which I hope is the coil packs, so I've chucked in brand new Splitfires last night

It's big $/km on the track I tell you...

100% its the shims.

We saw exactly the same thing on EBC Yellow Stuff pads (900 degree rating) on the rear of Honda S2000 models.

The shim they supplied only covered half the area it needed to, took all of 2 seconds to work out the pad was forced to run skewed.

Told RDA and EBC about it with pictures with shims and without shims, problem gone....they still supply the shims....

  • Like 1

100% its the shims.

We saw exactly the same thing on EBC Yellow Stuff pads (900 degree rating) on the rear of Honda S2000 models.

The shim they supplied only covered half the area it needed to, took all of 2 seconds to work out the pad was forced to run skewed.

Told RDA and EBC about it with pictures with shims and without shims, problem gone....they still supply the shims....

Thanks mate! I'll get the discs machined and put fresh pads in without the shims, see how we go.

100% its the shims.

We saw exactly the same thing on EBC Yellow Stuff pads (900 degree rating) on the rear of Honda S2000 models.

The shim they supplied only covered half the area it needed to, took all of 2 seconds to work out the pad was forced to run skewed.

Told RDA and EBC about it with pictures with shims and without shims, problem gone....they still supply the shims....

Would you recommend dropping the inner full shims also, or just the outer halfies?

very unlikely to be shim related, most likely you have seized pistons in both calipers, or potentially a wheel bearing issue (although less likely to happen on both sides).

I've just checked the hub play by lifting the car up and grabbing the wheel 12-to-6, can't really feel any. There's a little play in the steering when going sideways 9-to-3, which I suspect is the original tie rod ends.

I've got a full set of new Remsa pads, I'll get the rotors machined, ditch the half shims on all front pads and see how I go. Fingers crossed.

Only remove the shim that goes half way.

Replace it with a full shim or No shim, nothing wrong with no shim, if your worried about noise you can buy sound absorbing stick-on backing pads or lightly smear some copper grease on any metal to metal pad to caliper contact points such as where the pistons push to the back of the pads.

In the case we had, we just removed the shim and ran without one, we just smeared a little copper grease on the backing plate to caliper contact points.

No more side wear, all the others that still run the half backing plates still have the sideways wear pattern.

  • Like 1

I got the car back from the workshop today:

  • All rotors machined
  • New pads all around
  • All front half shims and clips removed
  • Gear oil changed (went with Shockproof Light again)

They also worked out that the leak at the front top left of the engine was the cam seals. We then decided to do the whole timing belt + belts + pulleys + water pump service kit whilst at it, so it got expensive really quickly... Lucky it was done though, couple of the pulleys were in a pretty bad shape.

Anyway Duncan was right, the front brake pistons are starting to seize. So next up it's either rebuild time, find replacement OEM calipers, or go aftermarket. I'll run it as is for a while whilst deciding...

Thanks for all your help and input everyone!

  • 2 weeks later...

Anyway Duncan was right, the front brake pistons are starting to seize. So next up it's either rebuild time, find replacement OEM calipers, or go aftermarket. I'll run it as is for a while whilst deciding...

...

Ok rebuild us going to be in the $500 ballpark, depending... Options:

1. Bite the bullet and do it

2. Replace with second hand OEM calipers of unknown history

3. Aftermarket brake kit

Rest of the front is fine Inc rotors pads lines so would be nice to get some use out of those...

Suggestions?

I'd go either 1 or 3, and it depends what you are doing and planning to do with the car in the next 2 years. I can't see why good, standard brakes wouldn't be sufficient for street/light track use, especially if you run semi slicks on the track.

2 is just a path to more pain, everything is 20years old by now....

  • Like 1

Anyway Duncan was right, the front brake pistons are starting to seize. So next up it's either rebuild time, find replacement OEM calipers, or go aftermarket. I'll run it as is for a while whilst deciding...

...

Ok rebuild us going to be in the $500 ballpark, depending... Options:

1. Bite the bullet and do it

2. Replace with second hand OEM calipers of unknown history

3. Aftermarket brake kit

Rest of the front is fine Inc rotors pads lines so would be nice to get some use out of those...

Suggestions?

Anyway Duncan was right, the front brake pistons are starting to seize. So next up it's either rebuild time, find replacement OEM calipers, or go aftermarket. I'll run it as is for a while whilst deciding...

...

Ok rebuild us going to be in the $500 ballpark, depending... Options:

1. Bite the bullet and do it

2. Replace with second hand OEM calipers of unknown history

3. Aftermarket brake kit

Rest of the front is fine Inc rotors pads lines so would be nice to get some use out of those...

Suggestions?

Tbh, I would go option 1) then consider upgrading the brakes if you find out that what you have just absolutely cannot cut the mustard.

It'll either happen eventually and you will want more stop power but getting there and having fun at the track is a good way to find that limit. And if you find you never need to replace them then eh you haven't gone to the track that much and as a result don't really justify a $2k+ brake kit.

Either way, you win out. Its not too hard to sell a set of front GTT brakes when/if you decide to upgrade later, especially if you have a receipt from them being rebuilt at XYZ shop on XYZ date.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • sold listed as a Tomei LSD 1.5 Way For 1998+ Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT RB25DE w/Open R200 https://www.ebay.com/itm/174006114594?campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms=&campid=5338967980&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&toolid=10050&customid=71883f2ccc571356e0a757bc7adfdde2&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&loc_physical_ms=108689&loc_interest_ms= it went in like butter all gears, alignment, back lash etc, rotation and clearances correct, and if rolling all rotates smooth and free when coasting down road , clutch in or out over 10 mph smooth... its the binding, clunking and jerking from a stop that is most concerning, also seems like its going to tear the tires off in 10 miles of normal road driving. 
    • What 1.5 way? There's no such thing really as a 1.5 way, just different ways of explaining 2 ways with different ramp rates. HOWEVER. In any driving in a straight line your 1.5 or 2 or 1.7 way should have no clunking at all. With the clutch fully depressed the diff should be silent (unless it's welded but I'm assuming it's not). Something aint right here.
    • Clutch is a spec brand, new clutch system,( PP, flywheel, friction disc, etc. pull type) installed 100 miles ago, with no problems.
    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drove beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
×
×
  • Create New...