Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The regularity time has been reduced from 2.40, to 2.36 I think but would have to check that to make sure of the exact time.

Most of us who are doing regularity normally do sprints but the general consensus is that, particularly for first timers like me, the Bathurst experience is the most important thing. It's not like we will be going slow, my V8 Zed should be capable of 260kph there with a 3.69 diff. One of our lot who is quite experienced has a race prepared 370Z, he intends to do the sprints.

Hope the groups do work out well and the traffic problems I'm imagining don't happen - it's just too much money for me to take the risk. I don't have the money now anyway - just bought another car and the Soarer's up for sale.

Is the V8 up and running now Richard?

What have you bought now Harry? Hard to keep up with your purchases :)

Sorting out the TCU (transmission control unit) is just about done now for the Z, what a PITA that has been. But I love the result, it would not suit everyone but it suits me and it's bloody fast.

pretty much the exact opposite of a Soarer - SW20 MR2 with Camry 3VZ-FE 3.0 V6, light flywheel, Quaiffe diff, coilovers... slower, but I imagine it will be far more "involving" to drive :) Only had it for a day, but it's an event just driving it in traffic - can't wait to get it out on some decent roads this weekend!

Edited by hrd-hr30

Nothing much: Torsen, BC coilovers (I changed the front spring rate), stainless exhaust, FMIC, transmission cooler, HKS SLD & FCD, 18x9.5 and 10.5s

Series II, Black on black - so no horrible multi-tone brown or green interior... but pov pack cloth trim, no sunroof. SAAS fixed position drivers seat and JZA80 passenger seat (stock seats included). Pretty average paint and some no f**ks given hacks for track cooling and stuff... Mechanically A1 $4800 as it is, but I might pull some bits out of it and throw a stock front bar on before selling it a little cheaper - plywood ducting may not be for everyone...

post-15659-0-76177900-1460683534_thumb.jpg

Edited by hrd-hr30

A MR2 eh Harry, you like a handling challenge, looks like you have one right there :)

We didn't struggle "too much" with setting one up to handle respectably.

The challenge is in adapting to driving them correctly. Rear weight bias changes things, but there's enough video of Porsche 911 and Lancia 037 on gravel to show what rear engine cars can do.

I think the handling 'issues' are a common misconception. Proper motoring journos (ie the ones who could drive - like Tiff Needell) raved about them when they were first released, and they were untouchable in their class (NA sports cars) at Bathurst's 12hr Production car races - even ending up with a 4th outright.

lol I may have neglected to mention it got it's 4th outright mainly through fuel economy and not having to change brake pads like all the big powerful cars.

Stock Camry power is not going to get anywhere near 60 sec! And that's not what the car's about anyway. It's about the rorty NA engine, razor sharp handling, and enjoying a totally different driving experience.

Lol the 'razor sharp handling' and any twin cam three litre engine in a smallish modern chassis adds up to good lap times, there have been a few under 60 sec Lakeside laps done by older inferior spec cars as you well know Harry so the expectations are high and the pressure is on :yes: Don't cop out by using crappy tyres either, I'm watching.

you've got no idea... It's just a 200bhp mid 90s 3VZ Camry motor. Power to weight is about the same as an 86. They've got pretty sharp handling too. With suspension setup by the best - MCA, and Josh Coote driving, they run 63s. I'll be happy around that.

And crappy tyres are my trademark! So you're going to be dissapointed :P

But it's not really about Lakeside, or any other track for that matter. It's just for the fun of it, and for the totally different driving experience of a small, light(ish), rorty naturally aspirated mid engined car.

63's!!! Old Zed cars do that, the very best do under 60's. The best driving experiences I've ever had were when pushing it around Lakeside, street driving has no comparison, you must be getting soft Harry :)

Latest on the topic has 300+ drivers registered with the organiser of which 49 are on the Z Car Club Q regularity list. So, as expected, this event is 'selling out' quickly. If want to get on the Z list then I suggest you contact Dave toot sweet.

63's!!! Old Zed cars do that, the very best do under 60's. The best driving experiences I've ever had were when pushing it around Lakeside, street driving has no comparison, you must be getting soft Harry :)

Funny - it takes some Zeds that weigh less than this MR2 over 450rwbhp to just barely sneak into a 59 on one single lap ever... Not to mention expensive MCA suspension, aero and years and years of trying...

And the old "280Z" cheater spec race car Zed that held the Class S sportscar lap record ran a best of 64, and it just sold for approximately 12 times the cost of this everyday road car MR2...

The only two old Zeds powered by Datsun motors to ever break 60 sec both have 3.3l $30K motors alone and needed super soft slick tyres to do it...

Edited by hrd-hr30

Plenty of average spec Zeds doing 63's though Harry, costs can't be compared because a pretty ordinary standard Zed will bring ~$15k and it costs a lot just to bring one up to specs that all modern cars have except for their good stiff chassis.

When I heard of the best time the 86 you mention did I was pretty suprised, thought it would do better than that. Lol at the '280Z', I used to rubbish him for being one of the slowest Zeds out there but Lakeside is a lot about the driver and maintaining momentum as you well know.

Plenty of average spec Zeds doing 63's though Harry

There should be - hundreds of kilos lighter and capable of as much power as the MR2 easily, with cheap easy 'average' brake upgrades etc, but there's certainly not "plenty". Unless 2 or 3 counts as plenty in your books... and by average, you mean only the fastest of the state's Zeds that are basically race cars...

Edited by hrd-hr30

86's are pretty good, I hung onto one for a lap and a bit with the crappy running Zed the other day at Morgan Park, it was a Neal Bates 86 race series spec one and being driven by Glenn Seton, boy am I dropping some names here lol. Anyway, it's handling and acceleration showed no sign of it being over weight or having any other impediment, went like a 60 second Lakeside lap car in my humble............ Only sorry that I didn't have the incar camera going.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...