Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

So im continuing to do general maintenance on my 1997 R33 gtst. (changed MAF, cleaned AAC, service etc) nothing crazy.

I have noticed that there is a strange droning sound that occurs as soon as i rev past 3000rpm. it is sudden, makes the sound and then disappears as soon as i back off the accelerator and get it back under 3000rpm. Doesn't happen when cruising at 3000rpm, only when accelerating past it. i can't really explain the sound, it is low pitched droning, sounds like its coming from the drivers side in the engine bay.

Have researched this a lot online but when i check the videos of the things i have read it could be the sound doesn't match what i hear.

Any help you guys could provide would be awesome, dont like hearing my car sounding sick!

Thanks everyone

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465352-strange-droning-sound-from-engine/
Share on other sites

Not an exhaust vibrating on the chassis or a rubber missing?

Thanks for the reply!

What sort of rubber do you mean? If i had to explain it better i would say the duration of the sound is similar to a BOV it is short and sudden and then disappears. I have been told that one of my engine mounts was worn, but from memory this sound started soon after installing new spark plugs, could either of those two things be responsible?

To anyone reading this, i have done some more research online and found that a lot of people have videos with a similar sound under 'misfire' and most are caused by spark plug related issues. Seeing as this started happening soon after i changed mine i think that might be the problem.

Can any recommend spark plugs for a lightly modified r33 gtst. I think i may be running the wrong ones. Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...