Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New member here. I'm importing a 99 stagea 260rs and it should be here in about 4 weeks. During this winter and spring to early summer the plan is to do a single turbo swap (gtx35 or a pt 6266) in the meantime i hope to enjoy it for the last month and a bit of nice driving weather around here. I was thinking of doing exhaust manifolds and possibly turbo elbows and an exhaust.

Anyways these are the manifolds im thinking about getting as they are at my price point.
So my questions. 
Now what I can't figure out is what are the extra pipes? There's 2 on each manifold. One is a t2 flange? One is for an external wastegate? 
Whats the other one for, whats the purpose?
Can i bolt the stock turbos onto them?
Thanks

restrict1114-img450x600-1467531336mrqua519099.jpg

restrict1114-img600x450-1467531317pn5l0n11901.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465699-newb-with-a-manifold-question/
Share on other sites

Well, one is definitely for an external gate, but I couldn't tell you what the logic behind the other square flanges are for.  They could be to run some bizarre quad turbo setup (AS IF there's enough room for that!), or for some crazy exhaust pressure balancing pipe.

I'd think that just because they're at your price point is not necessarily a reason to buy them.  I would not be planning to do the work involved in removing the turbos from an RB26 unless I was forced to.  It's a tedious task, and those manifolds are unlikely to reward you with anything in the way of extra power.  If you're planning on changing to a single anyway, I'd be looking at spending money on things that are worthwhile, like a full set of rubber hoses (coolant, vacuum, etc), timing belt, water pump.  Possibly ignition coils.  All the boring stuff that the poor car is likely to need after possible years of neglect/use/wear/heat.  Or brakes, or suspension bushes, or a fuel pump or the list goes on and on and on.

  • Like 1

No point in changing the manifolds if you are going single. Waste of money which would be better spent on a quality manifold for the single. I attach my pic of a quality manifold with a GT3540 but I would support your getting a better twin scroll turbo.

003-1.jpg

  • Like 1

Yeah its a balance pipe flange.

Secondly, as you haven't received the car yet i can somewhat understand why you think you could change the manifolds easily. However you cannot. It is a very, very tight space to get to stuff with the engine in the car. As someone who currently is sitting at 8 months without a working skyline, take my advice: get it, do the basic services, drive it, enjoy it in the warm months you have, and figure out any other little issues you want to fix. Then go single turbo.

Thanks, I appreciate the answers. I should of realized how tight and how much work itd be. A bit pointless as iI'll be swapping and a waste of money as gtsboy and kiwi said.

19 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Well, one is definitely for an external gate, but I couldn't tell you what the logic behind the other square flanges are for.  They could be to run some bizarre quad turbo setup (AS IF there's enough room for that!), or for some crazy exhaust pressure balancing pipe.

I'd think that just because they're at your price point is not necessarily a reason to buy them.  I would not be planning to do the work involved in removing the turbos from an RB26 unless I was forced to.  It's a tedious task, and those manifolds are unlikely to reward you with anything in the way of extra power.  If you're planning on changing to a single anyway, I'd be looking at spending money on things that are worthwhile, like a full set of rubber hoses (coolant, vacuum, etc), timing belt, water pump.  Possibly ignition coils.  All the boring stuff that the poor car is likely to need after possible years of neglect/use/wear/heat.  Or brakes, or suspension bushes, or a fuel pump or the list goes on and on and on.

I had thought of coils and a new bushings kit, i had thought that letting the gases flow better would be cheap and easy... I had  93 180sx that i imported with 93kms and near stock  that I sold to fund the stagea. I have a 2 post rotary lift at our farm, so first thing i did was lift up the 180 and do a down pipe, let tit flow and everything else was really easy to get at. I forgot its a bit more tight with the rb in there.. I think I'll focus on what you listed.

What about turbo elbows? If i can get them cheap enough, are they as easy to get to on the sr if i use a hoist. Are they worth it? I might be able to get a return of my money for them when i do a single swap

Edited by GonzoGTR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The incentives are mostly the same, yes. Ethanol is cheap compared to the cost of doing 98-100 RON with crude oil alone. 87 to 93-94 AKI all with E10. In 2020 Canada mandated E10 as a part of their "renewable fuel standard" and is supposedly going to go to E15 in 2030. In California where there are only 8 refineries with two threatening to shut down next year it's been over 20 years now of E10 and 91 AKI maximum because there's just not enough refinery capacity or crude oil supply relative to the demand for premium unleaded fuel. And CARB's low carbon fuel standard means functionally none of the diesel available at the pump is made from crude oil anymore. It's almost all entirely 20% biodiesel blended with 80% renewable diesel (hydrotreated vegetable oil) now. The number of gasoline vehicles that support E15 or higher ethanol concentrations is surprisingly low, I can't imagine it being wise to play tricks like this without flex fuel sensors in most of the fleet.
    • It's almost certainly the same as the one next to it. Have a fish around amongst these hits https://www.google.com/search?q=surface+mount+transistor+m33&sca_esv=9cb49794e0b2005d&source=hp&ei=2vJ5aNjTB7Kw0PEPldnS8QM&iflsig=AOw8s4IAAAAAaHoA6qkfmF6XcygtrZ4Vu9f92NXF_RFd&ved=0ahUKEwjYqIPP7MWOAxUyGDQIHZWsND4Q4dUDCA8&uact=5&oq=surface+mount+transistor+m33&gs_lp=Egdnd3Mtd2l6IhxzdXJmYWNlIG1vdW50IHRyYW5zaXN0b3IgbTMzMgUQIRigATIFECEYoAEyBRAhGKABMgUQIRigAUjKCFAAWABwAHgAkAEAmAHfAaAB3wGqAQMyLTG4AQPIAQD4AQL4AQGYAgGgAuYBmAMAkgcDMi0xoAfMBLIHAzItMbgH5gHCBwMyLTHIBwU&sclient=gws-wiz
    • South Australia, which is hardly as far behind as the rest pf Oz makes out, and who is also not a paragon of progressiveness (read that as over-legislation) in the area of vehicle standards, has this to say on the subject: Adjustable coil-over suspension Aftermarket adjustable coil-over suspension components are suspension units that incorporate an external thread on the main body and corresponding threaded spring saddle that allows the vehicle's suspension height to be varied. If fitting aftermarket or coil-over suspension components you must submit an Application to modify a light motor vehicle form and a report from a light vehicle engineering signatory (LVES).
    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
×
×
  • Create New...