Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So installed xspurt 1000cc top feeds with top feed rail from scotty, Hypergear ss2, int gated, Haltech platinum pro, return flow cooler

Now when I had it tuned it made 281rwkw @17psi but full boost was somewhere at 5400 when I mentioned that it should on sooner the tuner had said there was something odd with the VCT when he was trying to set it, he thought it could have been a timing issue, so I had him check that(it was all fine) he then later contacted me and said it was the wastegate not set correctly, set it and then sorted the mid range, boost at 4400.

Now everything I've seen about the ss2 can have full boost at around 3800rpm, so it now has me wondering if there could actually be an issue with the VCT itself.(if VCT can help boost come on)

So have been searching on here about VCT and looks possible that my VCT is stuck as its giving me good top end but possibly poor low....

I disconnected the VCT and drove it and it feels the same, but I am unsure if it feels the same because it was faulty before hand and has been tuned around it...

The plug itself needs replacing as it doesn't clip on, I used a multimeter at the plug, car on, positive on one pin and neg on chassis and then other pin and chassis and no change at multimeter.  Did it hot and cold if that makes a diff.  Have I done it right? I assumed the positive wire was constantly on and neg switches on/off , so at least one of the pins would be giving me voltage.

I have to take the car back at some point to sort something else out but just want to see if there is anything I can do to ensure its working or not.

 

20160712_105552.jpg

Edited by MatthewT85
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/465813-rb25-possible-vct-issue/
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

is the Halaltech set correctly?

put a multimeter on and rev the car, it should register a voltage change at a specific rpm point (as per your tuner's settng)

ill have to check if its set correctly. it should activate just off idle and deactivate around 5k? correct?

when i rev the car it has to be in gear? another thread i read said it didnt activate without it in gear or something

4 hours ago, hypergear said:

Check and make sure the internal gate is 3mms preloaded. With active vct, you should hear a click on throttle movement

yeah thanks the gate is set to roughly 3mm

8 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Take the VCT out and wire it directly to see if the actual solenoid works first.

when you say take it out, do you mean take the vct solenoid out of the head and wire it directly to a battery? Also does it matter which pin is pos and which is neg?

3 hours ago, MatthewT85 said:

ill have to check if its set correctly. it should activate just off idle and deactivate around 5k? correct?

when i rev the car it has to be in gear? another thread i read said it didnt activate without it in gear or something

yeah thanks the gate is set to roughly 3mm

when you say take it out, do you mean take the vct solenoid out of the head and wire it directly to a battery? Also does it matter which pin is pos and which is neg?

Yes. No it doesn't matter which way round.

  • 1 month later...

So I've tested the solenoid and it's clicking. Next thing I'm gonna do is cut and solder a new plug on as it isn't staying attached and might be the issue.

Stupid question though. As I have to solder extra wire on so it still reaches the plug I went to buy some.
The wire had 10 amps on it. Other option was 25 amps. Is the 10 amp wire ok to use?

are the set points set correctly on the Haltech? because there's a vac and +ve pressure values that needs to be set.. conenct up the Haltech and press F4, then look for the VCT tab.. I recall it being on the OUTPUT menu, grab a screen shot.

are the set points set correctly on the Haltech? because there's a vac and +ve pressure values that needs to be set.. conenct up the Haltech and press F4, then look for the VCT tab.. I recall it being on the OUTPUT menu, grab a screen shot.


Yeah it wasn't set up as it looks like it wasn't working when I dropped off my car.
So I'm gonna attach a new plug and hopefully that's the issue.
  • 4 weeks later...

7c53fe5b7ddd609def9a1e80dc1244ab.jpg
So this is what it's at atm. What I'm trying to do atm is just work out it it's the settings that's been missed. Or whether I have an issue with the wiring.
I just want to make sure it works so it can be.put on the dunno to be set correctly

thanks, 

will it be ok to drive around with the altered settings?

also if i wanted to test the voltage at the plug after changing the settings, would i just have the car idling at operating temp and use a multimeter, or do i have to have someone put it in gear and clutch in?

I have just looked at an old thread of yours johnny and someone suggested having the car at idle and applying direct power to the solenoid using a battery or something to see if the idle changes, could this be a good test to try before playing with the haltech settings?

your Haltech settings aren't ideal anyway

If you want to test, I suggest this..

set the TPS to 5%, operating temp from 50c, set point at 1000rpm on both vac and boost then hold the revs about 2k and get someone to pull off the plug see if there's a change on engine note.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
    • There is a warning that "this thread is super old" but they ignore that anyway...
    • With 10% Ethanol, we're talking 2-3% fuel consumption difference. The emissions reductions and octane boost in my opinion far outweigh this almost non existent loss.    My tanks sitting at 80%. Luckily that should go down fast as I'm on vacation again for the next two weeks. 
×
×
  • Create New...