Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys new to this forum thing but need your help with choosing some new upgrades :D hoping you guys can point me in the right direction.

Ive recently completed an engine conversion on a 98 gu patrol went for something a little more exciting then the 2.8td that was in it instead with a rb25det that i had from a previously  crashed r33 of mine, the engine is unopened and has very basic mods so far but im keen to change that very shortly. 

Im looking for a turbo upgrade at the moment but ive got limited experience so not really 100% sure, but ive been contemplating the mambatek gtx3071r the company seem to have fairly good reviews for the small amount i can find, but im just not sure on the turbo choice and rear housing choice either .63 or .82 so any help would be appreciated.

Due to the fat arse patrol the poor little rb has to push around now im hoping for something not to laggy and capable of about 350rwhp 

 

Thanks in advance :1311_thumbsup_tone2:

For 350rwhp/260rwkw, my advice would be to get your stock turbo high flowed by hypergear. That turbo will do 260rwkw and full boost b4 3500rpm. Not too sure about the mambatek. Not many results around with those. I know they sound attractive but you will be a bit of a guinea pig.

Ok cool i did look at the highflow stuff a little but thought it might be worth getting something a little bigger so ive got some headroom for later chances are once i get 350 I'll want more:D dont really want to pay twice but i might have a chat to the hypergear guys aswell.

 

Dont mind being the guinea pig with the mambatek stuff its just hard to know what mods to do as the rb obviously delivers its power different in the patrol with all the wait and im also run a extremely heavy flywheel hoping to gain some low down torque but it messes with the top end a little

If i was buy a motor i probably would of went with that( and i just really wanted to start driving it, took a little longer than i wanted to do the conversion) as they make some good low down power but i had the rb25 already running read to drop in so thought id see how it went first before i went the rb30/25 way also ive never looked at whats involved but im guessing it might be more then i could do myself would definitely be good though.

I am still suprised at how well the near stock rb is going with the amount of weight its pushing around though

 

For your application might not necessarily have to build an Rb30det, we can high flow your factory turbo to meet your goal. and it will be very responsive for the power it makes. 

Ok i would definitely be interested in the highflow option if i can get around the 350rwhp out without squeezing  every drop out of the turbo.

I have to put a ecu in over the next few weeks hopefully and get a tune on the standard turbo i seem to have lost some top end rpm with the massive flywheel (im guessing) so that might make me go the highflow more than the gtx3071r if ive cut the top end out it probably wont be worth looking at the gtx 

2 hours ago, admS15 said:

 he has developed plenty of turbos for the rb for you to choose from.

this is why I rate hypergear, very happy with their hiflow i'm currently running. Plenty of good turbos around, but tailored specifically to rb's , well...worth supporting someone that puts so much R&D into a specific application.

  • Like 1
Ok i would definitely be interested in the highflow option if i can get around the 350rwhp out without squeezing  every drop out of the turbo.

I have to put a ecu in over the next few weeks hopefully and get a tune on the standard turbo i seem to have lost some top end rpm with the massive flywheel (im guessing) so that might make me go the highflow more than the gtx3071r if ive cut the top end out it probably wont be worth looking at the gtx 


A r33 high flow will get you there close to maxed out on 98, on e85 it will make 400+rwhp. A r34 high flow will get you a bit further. I'm not sure what effect being in a patrol will have with your heavy flywheel and whatever diff gears they have. Hopefully someone who has done a similar conversion can chime in on this.

Also the mambatek gtx turbos can't be compared to a genuine Garrett gtx turbo. I've seen a result for a gtx3076 mamba on a rb25 neo and from what I remember, it was very laggy and still fell short of a Garrett in the top end. Got to compare apples with apples and mamba results are far and few between.

Ok the e85 is this the flexi e85 at servos or a race bend? I dont know much about it.

Yeah i thought the mambas  wouldn't be as good consideeing there half the price but i havent had a great deal to do with turbos so i didnt think it would be alot if its a copy but like i said im new to this.

I'll have a look at the hypagear web site now:14_relaxed:

I didnt think of using the rb30 one i went with the rd28 flywheel, but it seems to have knocked the top end rpm around ive got to dyno it yet but seems to finish up around 6000rpm but a tune might help

Its not as bad as u would think on fuel i got 16l  per 100 thats with 3 days of beach work and a split highway and around town for the rest and i was giving it a hiding only on 11.5psi though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...