Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, wasnt too sure where to post this but just wondering how many people on here are using there haltech for Data logging and if i could pick your brains about it breifly.

Im trying to decide what path to go down in regards to dash and i keep looking at the IQ3 Logger dash but at 2K for the dash i keep asking myself why i couldnt just buy a windows based tablet and load the ECU manager software on that and then use its memory for the logging and setup a home screen for lights/gauges but has anyone else done this?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466319-haltech-data-logging/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, there are more reasons then this but I'll list a few 

* tablet screen will turn off with inactivity
* direct sunlight onto the tablet will make it very difficult to read 
* when you turn on the car, you'll have to wait for the tablet to boot up then manually open the Haltech software 
* you'll need to wire up some sort of power supply to the tablet as well as the USB from the ECU
* mounting the tablet may prove more difficult then mounting the racepak dash,  
* the tablet isn't as, shall we say, 'focused' as being a gauge/display. (what I'm trying to say is the racepak dash has things like progressive shift lights etc and is solely designed as a dash / gauge cluster - therefore will inherently be better suited for this purpose) 

At the end of the day, it won't be super cheap buying a decent windows tablet, wiring it up, mounting it and overcoming the above short falls... If your spending all that money, why not just get the racepak dash?

I'm sure others can add to my list lol

  • 4 months later...
  • 5 months later...

So i still have to get some pictures but i got myself a HP Stream 7 tablet, its a 7" screen and i have setup one of the display screensas a dash and i love it!

In the settings i was able to set the screen to not switch off or dim untill the off button is pressed.

I got an anti glare screen protector and sat in the backyard with helmet on in full sun and could still see it clearly.

Yep when i get to the track i have to turn it on an boot the software.. generally while the cars on the trailer anyway.

Got a car charger usb for it and it has a 5A fused charge feed, no converters or anything so that was easy.

For mounting i got one of the protector cases, pushed the screen cover out of it and screwed through the back of it to the ally sheet dash.

It took some thinking and problem solving but at the end of the day i paid $75 for the tablet and can remember what for the case and charge cable but it wouldnt owe me more than $100 so thats left me alot left over for sensors and track time. Plus i will be able to store tunes on there so i can have a low boost, high boost etc... and the added bonus of while im in the pits i can watch movies if i didnt break anything hahahaha

Dont have any pics of it running as the cars in bits but this is what i have setup as the display. The dots around the outside are progressive shift lights every 500rpm incriment in different colours etc.. the 2 dial gauges are oil pressure and coolant temp as i just like a visual of where its at rather than reading numbers. The middle zeros are RPM number display at the top, Speed underneath, MAP pressure and finally Volts at the bottom. Then under the 2 gauges i have a red light for if the oil pressure drops below 10psi or if the coolant exceeds 110°C. Yes its not as pretty as the Racepak etc but like i said before $1500 saving, well thats ALOT of track time that will be a whole lot more beneficial to my lap times than a fancy dash

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Found the answer: it wont fit without a bit of work- you'd have to change the guards as well
    • Ok cool, because I do have some OEM BMW options for light(er) wheels. 17x8.5 M Sport wheels are 11kg and I could put 255's on them. Maybe that's an initial test.
    • So, in the effort of pulling apart airboxes and testing enclosures to see if this aids in MAP loss at WOT I noticed: 1) The ducts up the OEM intercooler holes from the front bar help IAT drastically, whether the pod is shielded from the engine bay by an airbox missing a lid, or an airbox WITH a lid. Plus you get more induction sound without the lid. Having half the airbox (with no lid) acting as a barrier to the headers seems to help. 2) For shits and giggles I checked the TB. This was full pedal travel. This is actually full travel of the TB. Photos aren't perfect, but there was definitely an amount of play in it and it wasn't against the stop. After much swearing and adjusting the pedal, I realised that the cable is actually too long for the skyline pedal travel to fully articulate it. Having the pedal adjusted so WOT was actually hard open on WOT resulted in an idle of 3500rpm. As an aside, this was also the TPS registering at 3.1%. I removed the above to give the pedal enough travel to actually fully open the TB. I now get a satisfying 'thonk' on full open and full closed which you can hear pumping the pedal as it hits the TB stops (with the bonnet open and intake back on). Luckily for me, the screw screws into a raised metal boss under this plastic piece that is now acting as the new throttle stop. I've gained about 20mm (ish) of pedal travel and I can move it maybe a mm or two post open-thonk before it's hard against the stop. After all of this I did a bit of road tuning because a 102MM throttle is sensitive. The difference between holding an 950rpm idle and instantly stalling is about 0.4% of TPS movement. Will that help? I suppose it can't hurt. I set 'closed' point back to where it was, I can definitely feel the extra pedal travel that is needed to actually open the TB fully. But this morning I dropped the car off at Paint Jail again, so who knows when this will re-eventuate out to see if it helps with the top of the dyno hitting a ceiling.
    • Take heart that everyone else seems to have found a way. The OEM S1 indicators do slot in pretty firmly. It may simply be a case of having them sit slightly looser and nobody actually ever noticed this when attempting to remove a indicator from a JSAI bar :p
×
×
  • Create New...