Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Project Snoopy

Purchased my first R33 a couple of months ago as a toy, absolutely love the car and its quite fun as it is, but that never lasts long. The goal for the car is street/track making a reliable 300rwkw.

When i purchased it it had a FMIC, Tien coilovers and a 3" turbo back Magnaflow exhaust. As with any new car that i buy a complete service is done, all oils were changed with Penrite products, including 10 thenths race oil in the motor, new coolant and new filters all round. Just something that i personally do with every car i by, no matter when it was last serviced. That way i know that it has all been done and it is using the products that i prefer.

image1.thumb.JPG.549cdca660ac53289929902299f0331d.JPG

The reason the car has been called Snoopy branches back into my R31 days where i had a car with the same name and similar theme. i have always liked and built most of my cars with a Black and White theme so it has continued on with this car.

image3.thumb.JPG.3a30fd8a9898d42b24f6709f8e1ec92e.JPGimage4.thumb.JPG.94a0f157fb1437862056b388a6fc31fe.JPG

 

After about a week or so i noticed that is wasn't holding boost properly and nutted the issue out to be the boost bypassing the factory BOV, i upgraded it with a GFB Deceptor pro, and whilst i was there i installed a GFB EBC, and wound the boost up to 11 PSI which is around the limit of the stock turbo.

 

image2.thumb.JPG.8f2d3112e458dfd42afa4807374b7c51.JPG

 

A few more weeks had passed and the increase in boost has started to have a detrimental effect on the clutch, anytime it was put under load it would start slipping. Considering future plans with this build i didn't to settle with another single plate as i know it will have to be changed again down the track, so i just bit the bullet and upgraded to an Extreme twin plate race clutch.

 

image5.thumb.JPG.1a68eb8dcaffcc7b5dfc22992ae4d860.JPG

image6.thumb.JPG.a550c4026c4d013fac9f6343373601da.JPG

Interesting times prevailed after installing this for the first few drives trying to get used to the bitiness of this clutch, but after a few weeks of driving it i have the takes offs down pat, i am still in the bedding in stage with this clutch, i was told by the manufactures to put atleast 500-1000kms on it before doing launches etc. i have tried my hardest not to feed the car too much boost, but every now and then i cant help myself.

I decided it was time for some new wheels, and a brake upgrade, i through on a full set of RDA D series rotors and their extreme pads, im not real happy with the pads though so i am going to swap them out with EBC yellow stuff pads.

image7.thumb.JPG.0f52a9ce4134eb2836df52f20ef7f1ee.JPG

 

I purchased a Freddy manifold for the car, but i couldn't bring myself to install it, so that has been placed aside and funds are being allocated towards a Plazmaman manfold.

Next on the too do list for the car is a few more cosmetic upgrades to "clean" the look a little, followed by a higher flow fuel pump and higher flow injectors, coils and new plugs.

I am still currently undecided on what i want to do with the turbo side of things, whether to go down the track of a highflowed turbo or opt for a complete replacement, once that is decided, then comes the bigger decision on what aftermarket ECU to use, Halteck, Link, nistune etc etc

As things get done and upgraded i will update this with more pictures and info

image1.JPG

image3.JPG

image4.JPG

image2.JPG

image5.JPG

image6.JPG

image7.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466703-project-snoopy/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Small Update:

Installed a short shift kit into the car, completely different feel from the factory shifter, not 100% if i like it or not.

Nismo clear indicators installed as i dislike amber lights, does anyone know if a clear front indicator alternative is available? or would it be a case of modifying a set of fog lights?

I have also purchased a low seat rail and a cheapy Autotecnica seat (until i can afford a Bride Low Max seat) so all 6ft 5 of me can fit a little more comfortably, and have some hope of having a helmet on.

Next will be the 040 pump upgrade and injectors

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466703-project-snoopy/#findComment-7778933
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Messed around getting the LH mirror to fold in today, pulled it apart and found one of the contacts had come loose, glued that in, tested it and worked a treat. Put it all back together, and mounted it on the car, tested it again, worked great, reinstalled the door trim, packed all the tools away, test the mirror once more, it folded in but not back out. Bastard.

Pulled it all back apart again and turns out the non broken contact had gotten jealous of the flash fixed one and unmounted itself from the pityful plastic blobs that hold it in. Glued it in and put it all back together with testing pretty much after every screw and all is sweet.

I know at one stage you could buy from a member a module that made the mirrors fold in when you switch the car off but he has been inactive for a few years, so im going to get a few relays and make it work'. once done ill post a diagram.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466703-project-snoopy/#findComment-7783046
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

New seat and rail has been installed. Here are the comparisons on height and legroom.

OLD:

Front height (Front most lip of seat base) 760mm

Rear Height (Rear most section of seat base) 930mm

Leg room (Front lip of seat to brake pedal) 560mm

NEW:

Front height - 800mm

Rear height - 940mm

Leg room - 630mm

It is an autotecnica seat and to be blunt, it is shit. The seat back has over 100mm of movement, so when you hit boost you feel like you will end up laying down. Currently organizing them to either replace or refund the seat. If i had the money i would get a Bride, but funds say no as there are other little things that need doing first.

 

I have bought an Aeroflow 340LPH E85 compatible fuel pump and i will be upgrading the rest of the fuel system to E85 safe hosing for future endeavors. The o-ring on the top of the tank leaks so i will replace it, and figured while i was in there i might as well upgrade the pump.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466703-project-snoopy/#findComment-7788671
Share on other sites

Installed the new pump today, after pulling the module turns out it had a Walbro 255LPH pump in there already (now for sale). I replaced the tank seal and greased it up when reinstalling it so hopefully the fuel smell issue is now solved. I was a little concerned that the pump maybe noisy but it is nice and quiet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466703-project-snoopy/#findComment-7790046
Share on other sites

Cruising through Facebook as one does and up popped a R33 strut brace for a massive sum of $20. Not sure of the brand, but the tube itself is made of quite thick aluminium and is strong and ridged.

It is quite rough looking so the plan was to clean it up and see what it was like, for $20 can't really go wrong

736a61c26268a3bc3897f01a8cf0db3a.jpg

Turns out the feet had 3 different layers of paint on it the original being red. A dose of paint stripper was required.

4f0cce5b618c8b79f8a600c06a9f2aa1.jpg

Everything cleaned up quite well after all the layers of dodgy paint was removed.

1f5d3b44173fea7c9e2bc0c8f7fc92b0.jpg

Missus wasn't home so I decided to use the best part hanging rack I have for painting.

c01b985ee48b0b51e65bfbeebd685c1b.jpg

I didn't really fancy the anodised blue so I decided to do the feet in the original red and paint the cross bar in aluminium silver. This is before clear coat.

b8480c0df6ff20f671913b312701dd3a.jpg

After clear coat, I'm quite happy with the way it turned out, not to shabby for a rattle can job, like anything really if it's prepped properly and you take your time you can get great results.

e378a8770b248f5b30c732e7165d1391.jpg

ab0e5b7b631975c80a1a6a153098dc45.jpg

Aaaaaand fitted to the car.

2360e412b59121d2082c0251a0eafea2.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466703-project-snoopy/#findComment-7790797
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

This morning the 33 went on the dyno so i can get a base figure before moving onto the next stage of the build.

The power figure was pretty much what i expected it to be considering what i've done to the car thus far

  • 3" mandrel bent exhaust
  • Splitfire coilpacks
  • 340LPH fuel pump
  • FMIC
  • Boost wound up to 11.5psi (on the dyno it sat at 13psi until 5000rpm where it tapered down to 11.5)
  • 100ron fuel

It made 177.9rwkw and 459.4nm of torque.

The power and torque curves were quite smooth and consistent through 3 runs.

It does however run quite rich, with the high end AFR's being 10.51.

The plans now are GTX3076R, Haltech Elite 2500, Flex fuel and E85, possibly a set of poncams with solid lifters

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466703-project-snoopy/#findComment-7811648
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...