Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yuh, that's just a sheathed TC passed through a gland.  The screwed fitting at the very top (female part) is the gland seal.  The TC is very short, so it would be trivial to not insert it far enough.  Just loosen it and see if it can be pushed in further.

  • Like 1
20 hours ago, admS15 said:

According to tampered motorsport website apparently there is a sandown track day on the 11/12. I may sign up for that once I have my car running again.

Some of us other SAU's might join you on this day :) Either that or rexmas pending on the amount of cars entered

11 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Sorry mate manic today and over the weekend but Sunday night could work? Unless you must buy tomorrow :)

 

We'll keep in touch :) 

3 minutes ago, blah_blah said:

Some of us other SAU's might join you on this day :) Either that or rexmas pending on the amount of cars entered

We'll keep in touch :) 

Cool, will keep an eye out on both events and touch bases before committing to anything.

On 04/11/2016 at 8:04 AM, GTSBoy said:

Yuh, that's just a sheathed TC passed through a gland.  The screwed fitting at the very top (female part) is the gland seal.  The TC is very short, so it would be trivial to not insert it far enough.  Just loosen it and see if it can be pushed in further.

Just pulled out the sensor then, it was pretty stuck with the constant heat expansion/contraction. The probe sticks out a good 25-30mm and I don't think it's ever moved since installation (nor could I move it) so it's not the positioning. Also the gauge doesn't move anymore at all (no error light either) so somehow the sensor just decided to die now.

A genuine Defi replacement is like $250 so I reckon I'll try a cheapo eBay replacement next to see how long it lasts.

  • 3 weeks later...
No.  Take it to IPA (Industrial Pyrometers Australia) or any equivalent place near you and say, "Please sir, make me one of these."  Will cost ~$50.  Will be proper.

Did exactly the opposite, ordered cheapie off ebay, butchered original sensor wire to get the connector, only to find out that the probe itself won't fit through the Defi bung in the first place lol

I was googling industrial pyrometers and a few companies came up, if you've used one in Melb before which one was it?
  • 5 months later...
1 hour ago, -S- said:

Apologies for hijacking but quick one...( instead of starting a new thread) , can i apply this on a r33 rb25det? Basically arp head bolts and studs and oem head gasket for a bone stock 380rwhp street car.

500hp street setup

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
×
×
  • Create New...