Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeh i thought to myself, what if i do all this research, bloody calculations, then fork out the dough for the parts and everything, finally get it on my car and its ghey, what a waste of time... and in the end when i tried to save money originally, i think id end up spending more.

At this moment, ive made a list of turbos that would be suitable for me.

HKS 2835 56Trim .73AR, or HKS 2835R PRo (internal wastegate)

Garrett GT30 56Trim

Trust TD06SH-20G.

Ill just have to do more research and find one cheap :( hehe

You can get a new HKS GT2835ProS landed in AUS for ~3k.

The GT2835Pro version is around $100 or so cheaper.

Makes you wonder if it is worth fiddling with an external gate for this application when the ProS version has been known to make 280rwkw on 1.6bar of boost.

This is from Nengun

What turbo core and compressor cover is freebagn using in a vvvvvvl exhaust?

from memory, he's running a GT3040 core with a garrett A/R .60 compressor housing and a sierra cosworth A/R .63 exhaust housing.

Yeh i thought to myself, what if i do all this research, bloody calculations, then fork out the dough for the parts and everything, finally get it on my car and its ghey, what a waste of time... and in the end when i tried to save money originally, i think id end up spending more.

At this moment, ive made a list of turbos that would be suitable for me.

HKS 2835 56Trim .73AR, or HKS 2835R PRo (internal wastegate)

Garrett GT30 56Trim

Trust TD06SH-20G.

Ill just have to do more research and find one cheap :) hehe

here's on for ya;

http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/partsinstock.htm

Im thinkin of gettin a TD06-19c, mattR had one and made 286rwkw on bp98 and 313rwkw with toulene.....

 

 Decisions decisions.

Correct me if im wrong, but MattR had the TD06, then sold it and had the HKS T04-R on a manifold with twin external gates, and a Sub Zero plenum which got him up to the 313?Rwkw

Very interesting though....I have noticed (in my short turbo career:D) that no one seems to get 300 rwkw or over with an internal gate?

Anyone care to show me an example otherwise? I know you can get the 3037 Pro S which is rated the same as the 3037s, if not a little more, but has anyone actually seen good results ie 300 + rwkw on an internal gate?

Sorry for the hijack Enrico, though it may help others....including me :)

I'd say the 3037ProS will crack 300rwkw rather easily on the grounds of the 2835ProS pulling 286rwkw.

A t3/4 type back yard turbo will always have problems with boost creep due to the gate being way to small, you can only make the gate so big before you run out of room. The back yard turbo is a trial and error way of doing things, the problem is a lot of turbo shops will say 'yer it will work' yet really you are a guineepig. (Sky30 and his RB30DET)

HKS internal gates on the other hand have been designed with a large flap (45mm from memory)

Trying to find how well the 3037ProS really works is a problem, no one has published their results.

Guess your gunna have to make yourself up a guineapig suit then eh Joel :) I never had any doubt the 3037 ProS wont make it over 300rwkw...just seems too good to be true. Still requires a new manifold for the 3037ProS? If it doesnt (by memory just needed a 10mm spacer plate to clear the block?) then you are up for a new manifold...

The only added cost then is the external gate. Unless you need to spend more on the 3037 ProS to get it to hold boost, ie stiffer springs, or a top of the line boost controller...?

Catch my drift ? :D

300rwkw on the std manifold is pushing it.. :cheers:

EBC's have no issues holding boost, they work hard but do the job.

Every one needs an EBC up at that power level anyhow.

It gets too hard pushing 300rwkw.

I some times think I will settle for 270rwkw.

Slap a turbo like freebaggins on it and be happy with the response and stocker look.

I may have to talk to sky30 to see how happy he really is with the larger laggier turbo over his initial 240rwkw setup.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...