Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB25DET Whistling

Hey all.

I've recently had an a new issue with the RB25det in my Series 1 C34 Stagea. Last week I changed the plugs and coils, which solved the misfire problems I was having. After getting everything back together I'm now getting what I can only describe as a 'kettle whistle' it's noticable from 70km/h and quite loud at 100km/h ( a speed in which the car drives at a lot), and I do get slight hints of it at around 60km/h.

Tonight after double checking the plugs it did feel like it wasn't boosting as much as it normally did.

I put in Irridium sparkplugs, and Splitefire coils.

Have doubled checked all connections and everything appears to have a good connection, and couldn't spot any lines with fatigued lines.

Wanting to know if you guys could suggest anything to check.

Mods to car;

3inch split pipe dump

3 inch ehaust, but retaining the stock 2inch cat

GFB plumb back BOV

K&N Pod filter

Return flow front mount intercooler

Turbo smart bleed valve set to boost the car to about 9-10psi

All these mods have been on the car for at least 3 weeks before the whistling started, and was planning to remove the bleed valve, and put the factory diverter valve back on tomorrow morning before I need the car for work.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467920-rb25det-whistling/
Share on other sites

Exhaust gasket is my first guess. Mine sounded exactly like this and got worse and worse. One time it was the turbo gasket and the second time was the exhaust manifold gasket.

Does volume increase with RPM?

If its speed dependant not rpm or engine load/boost dependant, i would say something is physically making the noise, like a panel gap or something hanging down/out

Your post gives the impression it is only related to speed

3 hours ago, 89CAL said:

If its speed dependant not rpm or engine load/boost dependant, i would say something is physically making the noise, like a panel gap or something hanging down/out

Your post gives the impression it is only related to speed

That was my first thought, especially as I've installed a CB radio, and cut up the front bar for the intercooler.

Since writing the post I've pretty much lost all boosting ability, not even getting wastegate pressure (5psi) now, got a spare turbo laying around so gonna change the turbo later this arvo.

The exhaust has new OEM gaskets from the turbo through to the front of the cat when I put in the 3inch dump and front pipe and I can't hear any exhaust leaks.

1 minute ago, Moistcat said:

Since writing the post I've pretty much lost all boosting ability, not even getting wastegate pressure (5psi) now, got a spare turbo laying around so gonna change the turbo later this arvo.

The exhaust has new OEM gaskets from the turbo through to the front of the cat when I put in the 3inch dump and front pipe and I can't hear any exhaust leaks.

 

The only exhaust gaskets that matter when it comes to whistling noises and ability (or lack thereof) to make boost are on the high pressure side.  That's manifold to head and manifold to turbo.  And as I said before, they won't whistle like you describe if you're running at low load at a given speed.  You need exhaust manifold pressure to make them scream.

You can also get whistles from boost leaks.  Again though, they won't whistle at a constant road speed - only when you have pressure inside.  But if you do have some stupidly large gaping hole in your inlet tract then you could get all sorts of weird noises and apparent inability to make boost.  And probably lean running off boost and rich running on boost and all the bad things that can happen as a result of those.

You can get weird noises from the turbo if the turbine is falling apart, which can lead to loss of ability to make boost.  They normally fail totally in a split second though.

All in all, we still can't diagnose this one across the 'net.

While that is not good, It's on the suction side so will not stop the car boosting - unless the open pipe (if thats how you found it) has sucked something into the turbo and 're-adjusted' the comp wheel

Pull your suction pipe of and check the turbo for damage and shaft play etc. It is usually fairly obvious when you have a turbo issue.

 

  • Like 1
56 minutes ago, 89CAL said:

While that is not good, It's on the suction side so will not stop the car boosting - unless the open pipe (if thats how you found it) has sucked something into the turbo and 're-adjusted' the comp wheel

Pull your suction pipe of and check the turbo for damage and shaft play etc. It is usually fairly obvious when you have a turbo issue.

 

I took that photo after removing that hose, just sitting there as point of reference as to where it came.

The compressor wheel is good, very little shaft play and spins freely. Yet to check the turbine as I'm aware they can end up in the cat.

 

6 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Start by pressure testing the inlet system. Its hard to spot some boost leaks.

Sadly, I don't have the equipment to test pressure and compression. The downside about moving out of home :P

13 hours ago, KiwiRS4T said:

Bit off topic but why on earth would you fit a 3in exhaust and restrict it with a 2in cat?

I hadn't gotten around to that, it was actually my plan to fix that within the next couple weeks. That's about it really.

 

I did also notice that when I stopped getting boost the normal turbo spool noises wasn't happening. Turbo will be out tomorrow so I can check that and the manifold properly.

On 28/11/2016 at 10:33 AM, 89CAL said:

If its speed dependant not rpm or engine load/boost dependant, i would say something is physically making the noise, like a panel gap or something hanging down/out

Your post gives the impression it is only related to speed

No worries

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...