Jump to content
SAU Community

Did a boost leak test, now I'm not making any boost

Custard

By Custard,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Custard Contributor

Custard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

$330?

come on, cooling pro $186 delivered, gpi ones even less. 

nothing half arsed with a high flow with stock ecu at less than stock boost.

up to you, but you seem like a stubborn person so not sure why you're even asking for advice. 

put it another stock turbo so it blows up again, waste of time and money

My currently kit is a return flow and the cooling pro cooler to replace mine is $330. I can't buy any different one because my piping wouldn't work. 

There's nothing half arsed about that particular setup, but when I upgrade I will be going with a bigger and better turbo, doing everything properly and doing it all at once. I'm not going to blow 900+ dollars (that I can't bloody afford in the first place) on an upgrade that isn't what I want. If you think I'm stubborn because of that I don't know what to say to you.

The turbo I had didn't just randomly blow up, something happened when I boost tested it. I have no reason to think the next standard turbo will just blow up, and since I can't afford to do anything else, I will be replacing it with a standard turbo. Yep, it's a riskier decision than getting a brand new high flow, but being poor means I have no choice.

I opened the thread to get some opinions on what could have caused the broken turbo in the first place, not for people to tell me I'm stubborn because I'm not upgrading my car at their whim. 

Custard Contributor

Custard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, WMDC35 said:

Sometimes you need to spend a little bit more now to save in the long run, another second hand stock turbo will go to custard.

Yep, this is true. Would if I could. Being poor is expensive. Standard turbo should last me at least until I can save up for a better setup though, my last one was fine until I leak tested it haha.

1 hour ago, CEF33Y said:

In reply to the original question, have you checked nothing blew off when you did the pressure test, that would cause it to not make boost? I.e any hose connected to the cooler pipes/intake manifold?

I don't think so, I checked over everything before I pulled it all out. I only put 5 PSI into the system anyway which is less than I ran daily. 

Custard Contributor

Custard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, admS15 said:

your broken turbo is most probably a result of a foreign object hitting the comp wheel. I guess you've learnt the hard way, how not to do a boost leak test. You live and you learn.

Yeah, that's the leading theory. I mostly just wanted to know if it was even possible for the wheel to have been damaged the whole time, as I did not think what I did to boost leak test it could have caused it to happen. Won't be doing it like that again, haha. Even though virtually every guide I found online said to do it like that...

CEF33Y Experienced

CEF33Y

Posted
Posted

I still think there is something else going on. If the turbo still spins freely those chips wont stop it from making boost, might grenade it from being out of balance, but I'd expect it to still make some boost, not zero, like you've said.

 

Actually, just re-read first post, you said you installed a adjustable actuator, are you sure the wastegate flap is 100% closed, with about 5mm preload on the actuator?

If this is adjusted too long (holding the flap open) you will be making zero boost.

Custard Contributor

Custard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, CEF33Y said:

I still think there is something else going on. If the turbo still spins freely those chips wont stop it from making boost, might grenade it from being out of balance, but I'd expect it to still make some boost, not zero, like you've said.

 

Actually, just re-read first post, you said you installed a adjustable actuator, are you sure the wastegate flap is 100% closed, with about 5mm preload on the actuator?

If this is adjusted too long (holding the flap open) you will be making zero boost.

Now this is what I would have thought, but nobody has said anything like this until now so I figured the chipped fins must have prevented it from making boost. 

But yes, the wastegate flap was definitely closed, and I had applied a few mm of preload to the arm. I had the actuator setup previously with a harder spring and no issues with it. 

Custard Contributor

Custard

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Okay, I have a bit of a theory. When I did my boost leak test I had also installed the softest spring in my adjustable actuator, supposed to be a 5 PSI spring. I had noticed that it was substantially easier to manually pull the rod out of the actuator against the spring than it was on the standard 5 PSI actuator. I didn't think anything of it at the time, but could it maybe be possible that being so soft the pressure from inside the turbo actually just pushed the wastegate open itself? 

I put the adjustable actuator back on the turbo and tried pushing the wastegate open from the inside and it was quite easy - a lot harder with the standard actuator.

I really should have put the standard actuator in before ripping my turbo out...

 

Edited by Custard
Custard Contributor

Custard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just now, admS15 said:

Yep you should of but the turbo is cactus anyway and would of soon vibrated itself to turbo heaven or hell depending how you want to look at it.

Well my initial thought was that my turbo may have been like that the whole time, and considering I haven't found any trace of turbo debris I'm kinda inclined to believe that is the case, and that somehow it's just worked this whole time anyway. 

CEF33Y Experienced

CEF33Y

Posted
Posted

Yeah, I reckon at least change the actuator, should be able to do it with the turbo on the car.

 

And also, I've seen quite a few turbo's with fins chipped like yours, and they are still working. Quite possible the damage was there before.

But given the potential consequences of a turbo flying apart, probably worth thinking about changing it.

Custard Contributor

Custard

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 hours ago, CEF33Y said:

Yeah, I reckon at least change the actuator, should be able to do it with the turbo on the car.

 

And also, I've seen quite a few turbo's with fins chipped like yours, and they are still working. Quite possible the damage was there before.

But given the potential consequences of a turbo flying apart, probably worth thinking about changing it.

Yeah, actuator is easy to change, just gotta pop the turbo heat shield off. I will test both the standard actuator and the adjustable to see if it makes a difference. 

Interesting to hear, given that I reckon it's been like this for the whole time. Hasn't had any issues really, it's even seen a couple track days. I've paid for a new turbo already, might see if anyone wants the chipped one for a few bucks haha

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...