Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thats alright, ill take that on the chin.  

but there is a big difference between expensive and overpriced.

on topic, get a series 2.

:) Well said aybee. :)

So apart from obvious cosmetic difference between the series 1 and 2 (body kit, interior, ECU) was there any faults with the series I over the series II?

The car MISTIQUE is in fact enquiring about is (apparently) a 1995 series 1.5.

So is it worth while spending a little more and looking around for a series II, or are they much the same?

Cheers.

Ok the only problem i can say with every R33 is water getting in the rear lights :) I cant get it out :)

Hey K, yeah,

I had the same problem with my 95T with water in the rear right lamp. ended up just pulling the thing completely off the car, re-sealing it with non-acidic silicon (can be cut-out in you next accident), then re-applying while semi dry. Also, running a small bead of silicon around the upper seal (while the lamps is installed) also completely keeps water out. (don't worry about using silicon, as it does less damage to your car than allowing water to 'come in and stay). I bet that on warmer days, the water 'condenses' and appears on your rear windscreen???????

It eventually kills everything in your boot!!!

As for series2 Sklines'....I much prefer the very last series 1's. Their front bumper looks more aggressive (as opposed to the odd looking round indicators of s2). The last S1 has most of the s2 stuff, just cheaper and better looking front...mmmmmm...very subjective thought :Oops: !!!

Anyways.......

SuperSpitMark.

So apart from obvious cosmetic difference between the series 1 and 2 (body kit, interior, ECU) was there any faults with the series I over the series II?

The car MISTIQUE is in fact enquiring about is (apparently) a 1995 series 1.5.

So is it worth while spending a little more and looking around for a series II, or are they much the same?

Cheers.

The main "fault" with the series 1 was the ECU, which tends to run way too rich when upping the boost. You can easily fix this with an S-AFC, and bring it up to the same power levels as the later ECU. The 95 series 1.5 uses the updated ECU and so doesn't have this problem.

The only other minor fault I can think of is the dash surround and door handle surround is coated in this thin rubber type stuff, which tends to peel fairly easily. This was fixed with the series 2 (not 1.5). But that's really minor.

These cars aren't like Commodores and Falcons which get released with a whole BUNCH of problems, and then they fix half of them with the series 2, and then change models and start off with a whole new bigger batch of problems. This is the reason why I think the VS series 2 Commodore is a less buggy car than a VT series 1.

Hey K, yeah,

I had the same problem with my 95T with water in the rear right lamp. ended up just pulling the thing completely off the car, re-sealing it with non-acidic silicon (can be cut-out in you next accident), then re-applying while semi dry. Also, running a small bead of silicon around the upper seal (while the lamps is installed) also completely keeps water out. (don't worry about using silicon, as it does less damage to your car than allowing water to 'come in and stay). I bet that on warmer days, the water 'condenses' and appears on your rear windscreen???????

It eventually kills everything in your boot!!!

As for series2 Sklines'....I much prefer the very last series 1's. Their front bumper looks more aggressive (as opposed to the odd looking round indicators of s2). The  last S1 has most of the s2 stuff, just cheaper and better looking front...mmmmmm...very subjective thought  :Oops: !!!

Anyways.......

SuperSpitMark.

Thx for that, its my Rear Right one too :)

Fuel consumption will feel bad especially when you jumped from a previous 4-cyl common shopping carts. Heck even my bro complaint about fuel consumption after he replaced his 95 Civic sedan with the new Accord Euro - and his 4-cyl Accord Euro consumption is still LESS than my car!

As for series2 Sklines'....I much prefer the very last series 1's. Their front bumper looks more aggressive (as opposed to the odd looking round indicators of s2

thats ironic, cause pretty much the only reason i dont like the S1 is cause of the front bar. i think its even got to the stage where i see a stock S1 and cringe at the sight of its front end.

as for the wings, i dont really mind the S1 wing cause its more subtle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
    • Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85.
×
×
  • Create New...