Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

5 hours ago, Aussie_Delivered_R32_GTR said:

I'm pretty sure the car is legit but it certainly doesn't present in a condition that suggests the low kms.

The ad has been changed because previously he mentioned something about the speedometer being changed but the odometer mileage is genuine etc.

It has a 260kph NISMO speedo which is not standard. The 180kph's were fitted to these cars.

The blued out seats and dash bubble concern me.

That said, if it is genuine unquestionable mileage these issues can be sorted for a couple of thousand dollars.

Nismo listed is my car guys. Genuine Nismo confirmed with Vin and Spec, and Japanese service history to support mileage:

1990 735km / 2,167 km / 5,674km ; 1991 9,269 km ; 1993 15,001 km ; 1995 25,203 km ; 1996 30,949 km ; 1997 31,691 km ; 1999 35,569 km ; Export 2008 46,870 km

It has sat for many years with some neglect, as the condition attributes and price reflects, and is not without faults to which I am happy to point out to not waste anyone's time.

GT Auto in Brisbane have completed a full inspection, with positive feedback and mostly age related maintenance requirements.

PM me if interested. I'm an enthusiast who also owns an N1 R34, so I'm not a joker and not motivated by $$, just genuinely have too many collector cars and not enough space.

Edited by C6NVS

Just something that caught my attention on the sale page of the car in question. 

Check out the air box sticker. I'm 99% sure that it has been digitally edited to distort that actual kms written on the sticker?

Something to question about... Why would someone go to that much effort?

cd4999697248402009553.jpg

cd5745196328765020369.jpg

Edited by jmknights93
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
×
×
  • Create New...