R34 GTR Crossmember/Cradle required + questions

[samurai_gtr]

R34 GTR Crossmember/Cradle required + questions

Hi guys,

I've got an R34 GTR, my mechanic has advised that I have a bent front crossmember/subframe after a small incident with a gutter.  I've spoken to a lot of wreckers and no one has one.  I have however found an R33 GTR front(engine) crossmember/subframe and was wondering if that would fit?

Alternatively I'm sure someone would be able to straighten it, can anyone recommend anywhere in Melbourne that could possibly do this?

Also any idea on genuine nissan part no as I'd like to get a quote on a new genuine item.

Thanks in advance.

[Sick_R31]

54401-AA300- is the part number, Amayama lists it at $1200+ postage. Talk to race pace to see if they can straighten it or know anyone who can.

[Duncan]

Honestly I'd just replace it; are you sure 32 and 33 aren't the same?  There are some differences in the rear subframe with lower control arm mounting points, but that front one looks the same as a 32 from the pic.

[GTSBoy]

I'm pretty sure that 32 is different to later ones and that 33&34 are same-same.

it may not be bent - it might have just been moved on the mounting bolts.  It's hard to tell until they come apart.  Straightening is sometimes a tough job, not knowing exactly how much twist/bend is present once it's off the car and been leaned on a few times.  Trial reassembly and putting onto the chassis jig can add quite a few $$ if it has to be done more than once.  But it can be done.  'Twere me, with an R34 GTR worth quite a few coins, I would consider the $1200 buy for a new subframe to be worthwhile investment (protection of existing investment).  Possession of a spare subframe that you could possibly straighten and sit on the shelf also fulfills rule #1 of GTR ownership, which is "have at least 1 spare of everything".

[dr phil]

No. R34 is different. Steering rack has a different mount on driver side.

[samurai_gtr]

Thanks heaps guys I really appreciate it.

I think I'll just buy a new one from Amayama.  There's no photo on the Amayama site and I can't find a diagram or similar of the part # confirming that is the correct part number (despite the description).  I just really want to be sure that this is the correct part # before shelling out over a grand.

As there's major labor involved in replacing this, are there other things that should be done at the same time, keeping mind that the car's getting close to 20 years old now.  Wheel bearings, bushes etc???  Thought I might kill a few birds with one stone.

I also forgot to mention that the cars been off the road for about 6 years due to me moving interstate and not having the money at the time to fix it so it really needs a mini restoration.  Low kms though lol.

 

Edited January 17, 2017 by samurai_gtr

[Sick_R31]

5 hours ago, samurai_gtr said:

I think I'll just buy a new one from Amayama.  There's no photo on the Amayama site and I can't find a diagram or similar of the part # confirming that is the correct part number (despite the description).  I just really want to be sure that this is the correct part # before shelling out over a grand.

The part number i got from nissan FAST using a R34 gtr vin number, i also done a general search to make sure there wasn't any difference between gt-4, v spec, m spec or n1, the gt-4 lists a different part number but all the gtr's use the same 54401-AA300- part number. 

 

[samurai_gtr]

Thanks @Sick_R31 you're a legend.

Sorry to bump this again but in regards to buying supporting parts to "freshen" up my suspension any ideas on what I should get?  Bushes, wheel bearings etc?

Like I said be nice to knock a few things off as it looks like everything has to come off.

 

 

Edited January 18, 2017 by samurai_gtr

[GTSBoy]

Do you want the complete list that will cost you several thousand dollars?  Or do you want a few semi-random suggestions?  Because you can do either of those or anything in between.  Are you happy with rubber bushes (softer Nissan ones, firmer Nismo ones, possibly even firmer aftermarket ones) or are you happy with poly-urethane?  Are you willing to run adjustable length arms with spherical steel joints at the ends?  How many of the arms are you willing to do this to?  Just the caster rods?  Casters and uppers?  All 3 arms each side?

Wheel bearings are not really an issue related to having the suspension apart.  I would check them out whilst the car is coming apart and decide at that point.  They could be perfectly fine or they could be pretty stuffed.

Brakes are probably the first thing you should look at.  Get the calipers off and check the seals and so on.  Sitting for 6 years might have left them in a bad state.  This applies equally to the rear of the car of course!  Braided teflon brake lines are a good idea.

I would be thinking of putting some Bilstein B6 or B8 dampers into it at a minimum, if the ones that are in there are original.  If they're that old, they're not going to be much chop.  Other people will recommend a million different ideas for springs, dampers or coilovers.

Upgraded front and rear ARBs?  You could look at replacing the end links with ones with decent joints, instead of bushes.

Seeing as you're taking the subframe out.....steering rack bushes.  Possibly the steering column rubber ring replaced by an aluminium one.

If you're working under the car with the subframe out, you could consider doing all the rubber hoses (coolant, vacuum) under the inlet plenum.  On the other side, it might be an opportune time to investigate the exhaust manifold studs to see if any are loose/missing and replace those while there's better access from below.

It's starting to sound like an engine out job!

 

[samurai_gtr]

54 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Do you want the complete list that will cost you several thousand dollars?  Or do you want a few semi-random suggestions?  Because you can do either of those or anything in between.  Are you happy with rubber bushes (softer Nissan ones, firmer Nismo ones, possibly even firmer aftermarket ones) or are you happy with poly-urethane?  Are you willing to run adjustable length arms with spherical steel joints at the ends?  How many of the arms are you willing to do this to?  Just the caster rods?  Casters and uppers?  All 3 arms each side?

Wheel bearings are not really an issue related to having the suspension apart.  I would check them out whilst the car is coming apart and decide at that point.  They could be perfectly fine or they could be pretty stuffed.

Brakes are probably the first thing you should look at.  Get the calipers off and check the seals and so on.  Sitting for 6 years might have left them in a bad state.  This applies equally to the rear of the car of course!  Braided teflon brake lines are a good idea.

I would be thinking of putting some Bilstein B6 or B8 dampers into it at a minimum, if the ones that are in there are original.  If they're that old, they're not going to be much chop.  Other people will recommend a million different ideas for springs, dampers or coilovers.

Upgraded front and rear ARBs?  You could look at replacing the end links with ones with decent joints, instead of bushes.

Seeing as you're taking the subframe out.....steering rack bushes.  Possibly the steering column rubber ring replaced by an aluminium one.

If you're working under the car with the subframe out, you could consider doing all the rubber hoses (coolant, vacuum) under the inlet plenum.  On the other side, it might be an opportune time to investigate the exhaust manifold studs to see if any are loose/missing and replace those while there's better access from below.

It's starting to sound like an engine out job!

 

@GTSBoy Thanks for the insight mate, much appreciated.

So I already have new nismo braided brake lines as well as HKS coil overs.  I was more thinking of rubber seals, hoses or anything really that perishes over time.  So hypothetically if you had say $500-$1000 to spend what would your priorities be?

I'm not looking to replace items such as lower control arms or anything like that, just seals, hoses, bearings etc etc.

Trying to keep this relatively inexpensive as I'm saving my pennies as the car still has quite a bit of panel work to be done including a respray so there's 10Kish there.  My goal is to get it re-registered but do whatever makes sense while parts are off.

Sorry mate, not sure what ARBs are???  As you may have gathered I'm not the most mechanical guy lol.

 

Edited January 19, 2017 by samurai_gtr

[GTSBoy]

Check steering rack and CV boots.  Touch no bushes.  You will burn thousand of $$ as soon as you start to consider your options with those.  Inspect caliper seals as I said.  Do nothing else unless it clonks or otherwise looks f**ked when you take it apart.

[GTSBoy]

Oh, forgot to finish reading your post.  ARB = anti-roll bar.  You might be calling them sway bars.  Don't.

[samurai_gtr]

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Check steering rack and CV boots.  Touch no bushes.  You will burn thousand of $$ as soon as you start to consider your options with those.  Inspect caliper seals as I said.  Do nothing else unless it clonks or otherwise looks f**ked when you take it apart.

Thanks again mate.

Just looking at getting a few quotes for the crossmember, any other places you guys can recommend other than Amayama for genuine nissan spare parts?

Have emailed Streeter and Import Monster already.

Edited January 19, 2017 by samurai_gtr

[Duncan]

in my experience amayama will be cheapest anyway....not sure how many people you want to quote it to see if you can save 2 bucks?

[samurai_gtr]

4 minutes ago, Duncan said:

in my experience amayama will be cheapest anyway....not sure how many people you want to quote it to see if you can save 2 bucks?

Already ordered mate, ended up going with Streeter, as he's never done me wrong.  Plus I like to support small business.

[GTSBoy]

Ha.  It's along time since Jesse could be considered "small business", methinks.