Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

9 hours ago, MatthewT85 said:

It's interesting seeing your results. I have atr43ss2 with a cooling pro return flow and the first time I had it tuned it made about 280. Not long after getting it back it started knocking coming on boost. Took it back and 4 degrees of timing was taken out to keep it safe. Bringing it back to 250ish. Apparently it just couldn't take sensible timing and had high IAT. Wondering if it's same issues.

Also i had a gasket fail too, but it was the manifold one, was some cheap shit one and studs were finger tight

From all the threads I have read, it seems return flow is not ideal for trying to get past 250rwkw on 98. 
They just aren't efficient enough. Plenty of people have made more power but it's normally with bigger turbos and better setups. 

Tuner didn't mention anything about high IAT or timing issues on mine, it seemed though to have pressure drop across the intercooler.
Post intercooler it would hit 20psi and bleed down to 16psi, pre intercooler it would hit 20psi and hold around 19psi. 

Enjoy the 250rwkw though and if you feel like chasing down the issue then do that once the 250 gets boring, that's what I'm doing :)

3 hours ago, Manuel Kasko said:

From all the threads I have read, it seems return flow is not ideal for trying to get past 250rwkw on 98. 
They just aren't efficient enough. Plenty of people have made more power but it's normally with bigger turbos and better setups. 

Tuner didn't mention anything about high IAT or timing issues on mine, it seemed though to have pressure drop across the intercooler.
Post intercooler it would hit 20psi and bleed down to 16psi, pre intercooler it would hit 20psi and hold around 19psi. 

Enjoy the 250rwkw though and if you feel like chasing down the issue then do that once the 250 gets boring, that's what I'm doing :)

yeah i have noticed that too about 250 being the average.  Just weird that I had 280 at one point, although tuner did find the gate slightly open and once that was tightened maybe it didnt like it... but didnt show up at the time.

The only thing I can see different on your graph is mine has boost around 16psi and slowly rises to 19-20ish at redline, in my other thread people have mentioned things like CAS so I guess I just have to work out what I want to start with...

Well having 280 at one point makes the 250 boring straight away :(

  • 1 month later...
Currently have a weird grinding noise between 1000-2000rpm coming from the front of the engine around the CAS/Cylinder 1 
Going to try get the CAS off over the next few days and work out if that's what's causing it.

Video of the grinding noise if anyone is interested in hearing it.

The video is just there for the sound, not for the actual footage.
Had a few people comment on it being potato footage, the intent was just to get the noise not footage of the front of a normal RB25neo...

 

Also have a loud fuel pump, so might pull that out and try cut a bit off the bracket and install another clamp on there.
Hopefully that will stop the buzzing that it currently has.


Did you change your timing belt when I changed mine the idler made it whine like that.
  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/23/2017 at 9:53 PM, Manuel Kasko said:

Currently have a weird grinding noise between 1000-2000rpm coming from the front of the engine around the CAS/Cylinder 1 
Going to try get the CAS off over the next few days and work out if that's what's causing it.

Video of the grinding noise if anyone is interested in hearing it.

The video is just there for the sound, not for the actual footage.
Had a few people comment on it being potato footage, the intent was just to get the noise not footage of the front of a normal RB25neo...

 


Also have a loud fuel pump, so might pull that out and try cut a bit off the bracket and install another clamp on there.
Hopefully that will stop the buzzing that it currently has.

I'd be pretty confident in saying that you are running a gates racing timing belt? They usually make that sound for the first couple thousand kms. The noise from the belt will go away after running in. It's also quite possible that your timing belt may be a touch to tight. 

1 hour ago, jmknights93 said:

I'd be pretty confident in saying that you are running a gates racing timing belt? They usually make that sound for the first couple thousand kms. The noise from the belt will go away after running in. It's also quite possible that your timing belt may be a touch to tight. 

Hey mate, thanks for the info.

I'm actually running just a genuine timing belt.
Someone actually presumed the same thing when they heard the noise so maybe it is a touch too tight and makes it sound like the gates do.
I purposely didn't get a gates because I saw so many posts about them being loud. 

  • Like 1
6 minutes ago, Manuel Kasko said:

Hey mate, thanks for the info.

I'm actually running just a genuine timing belt.
Someone actually presumed the same thing when they heard the noise so maybe it is a touch too tight and makes it sound like the gates do.
I purposely didn't get a gates because I saw so many posts about them being loud. 

I was half right with my answer then haha. Easy fix.

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just a thought, how come you didn't use a 4D table? So you essentially run 2x fuel and 2x ignition tables, and the table/map switch is handled when there's enough WMI pressure detected. This is mine, but using the flex sensor as the 4th dimension, note the slider at the bottom. Between 0 to 70%, the timing is blended/interpolated , once it goes past 70% ethanol full send
    • Hi guys, after dreaming of owning a JDM legend for 20 years, I got the chance to buy a 1995 R33 GTR.  I live in a small country called the Solomon Islands which is in the pacific. There is no performance car scene here, however 90% of vehicles here are 2nd hand Japanese imports so there is a handful of JDM sports cars here, tucked away.  3 Evo VI’s, 1 180sx turbo, 2 GTO’s, 1 R32 GTR and 2 R33 GTR’s.    Only 1 Evo and a 33 (mine) are active. I’m hoping to set up a club to get these cars back in the road.    I’d known of my GTR for 9 years and always dreamed of owning it. At the start of this year I found it sitting outside a workshop waiting for a respray. It was in pretty bad shape, although running and driving perfectly apart from a big exhaust leak and worn out bushings. My brother in law who is a huge GTR guy came over for a holiday and I took him to see it, he got into my ear and I bought the car 2 weeks later as is.   I’ve had a pretty bad problem with alcohol and weed since 2020 and I really wanted to quit. So I used this as my motivation. I quit everything cold turkey and have been investing all my spare time into restoring this car. It’s honestly been the best experience and has been such a positive impact on my life.  There is no market for these cars here, no parts and no mechanics that can work on them, so if you wanted to sell one it would be pretty impossible unless you found the right buyer. After a bit of negotiating with the previous owner (a good friend) I got the car for $15,000 AUD ($85,000 SBD) which is insane.  I’ve almost finished doing a refresh on the engine, new turbos, spark plugs and split fire coil packs. Also new gaskets and seals, This car had no leaks to begin with, but it’s due now being 30 years old. . Next I’ll be working on the suspension, all new bushings, ball joints, king pins and new coil overs.  Then it will be body work, it has really bad rust in the boot floor, I have purchased a rear beaver cut from my bro which will replace the rusted out one. The car is originally KL0, but was burnt orange when it landed here, then it was resprayed toxic green and then Bayside Blue. I’m probably going to get it redone in Bayside Blue.  I’m super grateful to be able to enjoy this car and couldn’t have done it without my bro Chris from OG-JDM. Looking forward to the future with this car and hoping to get it on the runway at the airport here 😂  cheers fellas 
    • Also, it is just about triangularity. The less angle, the easier it physically is to do. Think of the amount of slip you're getting, as how hard you need to push an object. More slip, equals pushing way harder. Then the ramp is how steep the hill is. The Accel is less slip, which means it takes less pushing (less slip) to get it to be able to push apart. However, the steeper sides on the decell means it will take a lot more pushing (slip) to get it up the ramp.
    • It's the angle of the ramp from the vertical. You're measuring from the horizontal. To convert, take 90* minus your angle reference = Nismo Angle.
    • I agree, thus 45 degree is the *max* force one could apply to it. This is similar to what I've seen in uh... simulations... which allow you to play with diff ramp angles. Anything higher (or lower) than 45 degree would produce less force as 45 is the max... triangley.  I would state the 1 way is 90 degree, at least this is how my brain and other ways of explaining it refer to it. 90 degree also effectively acted completely open. I realise Nismo refer to it not as 90 (or 89) but "1". So I'm not understanding the angle on which these angles are based.
×
×
  • Create New...