Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

 

Has anyone had any experience using genuine Nissan oils more specifically for their gearbox I have been reading into it but I can't seem to find a great deal of info of them being used in older skylines they have it in 75-90 GL4 which suits my application but I want to know if it's actually worth getting and if it's any good

 

Or would it be worth getting redline MT-90

 

Anyone?

 

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469160-genuine-nissan-oils/
Share on other sites

I'd have to say, other than having seen the brand on an awesome race car I've seen and known nothing about them.  I have no idea what part of the market they are trying to cover between the basic oil makers / local oil makers and premium/overseas oil makers, or what the reason is that we would use them?

Redline Shockproof should never be anyone's first choice for tranny oil*. But it is the best choice for a bandaid for a box that has specific problems.

 

*I don't think this is like olive oil, where it is obtained by squeezing trannies.  I think it's more like baby oil, where the babies are not squeezed.

  • Like 3
1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

Redline Shockproof should never be anyone's first choice for tranny oil*. But it is the best choice for a bandaid for a box that has specific problems.

 

*I don't think this is like olive oil, where it is obtained by squeezing trannies.  I think it's more like baby oil, where the babies are not squeezed.

Hmm, depends which tranny you're squeezing?

  • Like 2

After a fair bit of research taking OEM specs and 25 year improvement in technology this is what I put into my cars....

Some may argue this and that and the other but this is just my recommendation:

Oil Nulon Full Synthetic 15W/50 or Penrite 10W/40 Plus 10.
Rear Differential Oil Nulon SAE90 LSD Gear Oil
Gearbox Oil Redline MT-90 Gearbox Oil
Front Differential Oil Liqui Moly 85W-90 Hypoid GL5 Oil
Nissan Long Life Coolant Nissan OEM Coolant
Transfer Case/Actuator Fluids

NISSAN MATIC D ATF

Cheeers,

Bob.

 

A genuine Nissan oil branded created in modern times was not conceived specifically with your 20 year old gearbox in mind. It's no more suited to your vehicle than it is a Mitsubishi or a Holden - just an oil with an additive package that Nissan approves for use in their vehicles. It's therefore no more special than any other quality 75w90 mineral oil suitable for your application. I find with Skyline gearboxes, mineral oils are king - the synchros don't seem to like synthetic as much - something about glazing them.

As for Redline shockproof - only use this in a racing application or when you're trying to get more life out of your already worn synchros. It's expensive and will offer you no real benefit over and above a mineral 75w90 in a perfectly healthy gearbox.

In the diff, if you're running a 1.5 or 2 way clutch LSD, then Penrite's LS 85w140 I've found to be the most street friendly, resulting is less clunks during low speed turns. If you want more bite in your diff once it's heated, then you can run a thinner oil like the 85w90 they tend to come with.

Engine oils - most RB20/25/26 will run just fine on a 10w40, even occasionally tracked. If tracking often or your engine has had a long and/or wearing life, you might want something thicker once it's heated, so 10w60 or 25w70 etc. My personal pick for the street cars is Penrite's ten tenths 10w40 full synthetic. RB25 feels very smooth with it and I change at intervals of about 7500-10,000km - engine still running strong at 200,000km+ (an obviously wound back odo too). As a rule of thumb...mineral oils in sports/performance cars should be swapped out at about 5,000km, semi synthetics can generally get 7-8,000, whilst a good full synthetic will allow you a 10,000km interval presuming it is not too filthy. If oil comes out black (but not burnt / broken down), this is a good thing! Oil's primary job is lubrication, secondarily cleaning the engine. If your oil comes out clear after even 1,000km then it's not cleaning anything out of the engine. Unless freshly built, RBs loooove to produce carbon build up.

Source: used to sell oil and gearboxes

Hope that helps!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...