Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R34 GTT boot gas struts

Bought these gas struts from a wrecker for $100 thinking my own ones are faulty, on account of boot lid not fully lifting up on release of the catch. But later found out that with the heavy spoiler all R34 boot lids act the same. Will let go for $75 Negotiable

My loss your gain!

20170301_124007.jpg

20170301_124021.jpg

20170301_124030.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469351-r34-gtt-boot-gas-struts-coilpacks/
Share on other sites

Possibly interested as my boot doesn't open and i thought it was my struts like you did.

What rear wing are you running? The reason I ask is that I'm running an oem gtr spoiler and it's not opening

Cheers

It still got an OEM GTT wing on it. So yours should be even lighter. When I release the boot catch from the lever inside the car the boot lid only lift up few inches and if I close the door bit hard it goes back in and re-closes itself. I expected it to be like any other car where the lid would lift up at least halfway. But it seems with R34s that has a wing on it, few inches is all we could expect.

Nissan Skyline R34 GTT OEM coil packs

Recently changed coil packs to brand new Split Fires. Removed these OEM ones at 75k on the clock. Might suit someone who wants to swap out one or more OEM coil packs. 

$100 Negotiable 

20170301_124158.jpg

20170301_124215.jpg

20170301_124239.jpg

R34s shipped with spoilers have a strut with a different part number to those shipped without (different pressures I imagine). They shouldn't be relocking themselves when you close the front door hard enough - at least my first gtt didn't. The part number for struts for that one is 84431-AA185.

My new gtt does the same thing as yours now. And from the factory it didn't have the spoiler (has been put on afterwards) and will close itself if I shut the driver hard enough. Part number for it is 84431-AA125 - which we probably both want to replace with the first one.

Anyway, I'm interested in trying the struts, especially if they're meant for a gtt with a spoiler. Would you take $50?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
×
×
  • Create New...