Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTR transfer casing questions

So, I have the weirdest question ever asked...

Does anyone know enough about the GTR transfer casing, to know, whether it could handle over 300HP, using only the front wheel setup ... and can the rear drive be disabled somehow?

I ask, because i'm looking for something to use for a mid/rear engine setup (custom chassis) and would prefer not to use a wrx or volkswagen/audi driveline...

 

any answers? or thoughts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469758-gtr-transfer-casing-questions/
Share on other sites

Ummmmmmm........I fail to see how you could use the GTR gearbox and transfer for a mid-rear setup.  Especially if you want to use the front output.

 

Ignoring, for the moment, the questions of strength, the engine-gearbox-transfer arrangement for the GTR stuff is purely inline.  So if you were wanting to drive something's rear wheels with the front output of a GTR gearbox, then the gearbox would have to be mounted a long way behind the rear axle line.  The driveshaft would have to come out of the transfer case the same as it does in the GTR, forwards to the diff, in the same way that the diff lives in the sump of the RB26.

You are aware the GTR transfer case only has the one, forward facing output, aren't you?

Even if you planned to just use the transfer case, without the GTR gearbox, it doesn't really change anything.  The TX case still needs to hang off the back of a gearbox, still only has the same output shaft.

Addressing the question of strength......actually, there's no point in addressing the strength question.  The answer is yes, or no, depending on a number of things that don't really make sense considering because the idea is fundamentally broken anyway.

Now i remember what these forums are like....

 

Let me clear it up...   RB25, + GTR or GTS4 gearbox, GTR or GTS4 sump and transfer casing. Power transmitted through the transfer casing instead of the rear output. And yes, I'm aware that the gearbox goes behind the engine...  and then has a shaft forward again to the transfer case. 

So, not a fundamentally broken idea..   hell, if factory five can do exactly the same thing with a wrx driveline (Yes I know its less complex...   but that's what fabrication is all about) in their 818 kit car, i don't see why it couldn't be done similarly with a GTR/GTS4 driveline...   my only question was on strength..  not on what you think of my idea...

Of course you remember what these forums are like.  With 12 posts and an Integra to your name.

So you want to use a really long engine in the middle of the car, more or less centred on the rear axle line, and a really long gearbox and transfer case at the rear of the car, then send the drive all the way forward to the sump region of the really long engine, where the rear axle line needs to be?  Right?  You do realise that the rear end of this drive line is going to be >1.2m behind the axle line, yeah?

How is this going to be smarter than any of the various Audi/Porsche gearboxes that people already use that are 10x more compact and can handle >300HP?

I used to come here all the time, under a different name..

I've owned 31's, I've owned a 32, I've owned a 33...  And yes, now I own an Integra...  Have you decided I'm stupid simply because I drive a Honda...

Yes, it would be a lot of weight (and length) behind the rear axle.. Hence my asking the question, so I know whether its worth trying to fabricate a better solution based on that gearbox...

And yes, everyone does audi/porsche solutions...  they've been done to death...

 

Thanks so much for your help... 

1 hour ago, Haz33 said:

Let me clear it up...   RB25, + GTR or GTS4 gearbox, GTR or GTS4 sump and transfer casing. Power transmitted through the transfer casing instead of the rear output. And yes, I'm aware that the gearbox goes behind the engine...  and then has a shaft forward again to the transfer case. .

You mean a shaft going forward from the transfer case to the front diff. No I don't think the drive from the gear box to the transfer case would hold up. The front shaft also is tiny compared to the rear drive shaft and the front diff too is a smaller unit than the rear.

Hey, Thanks man, that's kinda what i was looking for....

The whole idea looked a bit awkward, but i thought if it could hold the power it might have been worth tooling around with a bit.

Looks like its back to the drawing board...  Trying to find a decent transaxle without paying for porsche is a pain in the ass...

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...